Question QUESTION: Hi this is Frank from earlier about the EGR valve on my 1995 Chevy Blazer. I just wanted to make this so I could let you know what the problem actually was. Im hoping it works. Im gonna buy one of those filters for the EGR and hopefully that prevents anymore from getting in there.
ANSWER: GOOD MORNING FRANK, THESE SCREENS MAYBE HARD TO LOCATE !!! THERE ARE ONLY A FEW PLACES THAT HAD THEM WHEN WE LOOKED AT FOR OUR SHOP. I READ ABOUT THEM IN A MAGAZINE..IF YOU CAN NOT FIND THEM LOCAL GET ON LINE AND SEE IF YOU CAN FIND IT. IF NOT LET ME KNOW. DO NOT USE A REGULAR HOUSE WINDOW SCREEN,THIS WILL JUST BURN UP. IT NEEDS TO BE STAINLESS OR SOMETHING OF THIS SORT..ALSO WHEN YOU REMOVED THE VALVE DID YOU FIND THE VALVE WAS NOT SEATED DUE TO CARBON ???
GOOD LUCK, TOM...
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: All right. I just took the EGR off and I did find that it wasn't closing all the way every time. I tried to clean it so it would close all the way every time but I don't know if it worked. I put that back on and started it but it still idled really roughly as if it is misfiring in a cylinder. I hooked up a fuel pressure tester and started it and the fuel pressure jumped up and down from approx. 48-55 psi. Is that normal or could the fuel pump not be putting enough fuel to the injectors?
Answer HI AGAIN FRANK,NORMAL IS ABOUT 48 TO 50 LBS,BUT YOU HAVE TO KEEP IN MIND THAT IT IS NOT IDLING SMOOTH THERE FOR NOTHING WILL BE CORRECT AS FAR AS SPECS GO.. THE EGR VALVE NEEDS TO BE CLOSED AT IDLE...IF THE VALVE IS STICKING DON'T WASTE YOU TIME ON IT ANYMORE. YOU COULD PERFORM A TEST AND GET A PIECE OF METAL AND PUT IT OVER THE EGR HOLE AND BOLT IT DOWN WITH A CLAMP FROM THE MOUNTING BOLT HOLE AND START IT WITHOUT THE EGR VALVE JUST TO SEE IF THE PROBLEM IS GONE..IF THE EGR VALVE IS CAUSING THIS THE PROBLEM THE PROBLEM SHOULD STOP LIKE THIS...LET ME KNOW WHAT HAPPENS..TOM...
PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE ASKING ANY QUESTIONS. IF THIS CHEVY SECTION IS MAXED OUT.YOU CAN REACH ME IN THE OLDS/BUICK SECTION. Will answer questions from 6:00am to 10:00pm all days [EST][[[ NO DIESEL OR PAINT QUESTIONS]]] will answer all 1965 to present QUESTIONS ON ALL GM'S on mechanics of these cars. Keep in mind i am not there in person i am going on what you are telling me !! PLEASE IF ASKING A QUESTION GIVE ME AS MUCH INFO AS POSSIBLE. THE MORE THE BETTER. SUCH AS YEAR,MAKE,MODEL,ENGINE SIZE. THIS WILL HELP ME HELP YOU. I will not be able to answer all questions because of some situations that i would really need to be there and see things for myself,such as electrical issues. In many cases i would need wiring diagrams. I can also give you an estimate on what the cost would be at our repair shop as an idea to help you. Keep in mind that my answer is ONLY MY ADVICE,ck with your mechanic as well.. >> THANK YOU, TOM..
I have been a ASE certified master mechanic for over 30 years and certified IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES,[engine repair,engine performance,auto trans,manual trans,clutches,steering and suspension,brakes,electrical systems,heating and air/cond. I am also a state CERTIFIED inspector for over 30 years. I do computer work [pcm]fault codes,pcm flashing,state inspection monitor readiness,repairs on exhaust,fuel service,[injection and carburetor,] charging system problems, running issues,alignments,frame problems,tire balance,struts and of course standard and anti-lock brakes.
Organizations nys state auto repair industry and ase group.
Education/Credentials high school,4 years of tech school,and many many hours of auto training with many gm classes and aftermarket training classes..
Awards and Honors ASE MASTER TECH CERTIFIED IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES.NYS INSP LICENSE AND A/C CERTIFIED
Past/Present Clients MANY CUSTOMERS IN OUR BUSY SHOP.