Expert: Tom Carter ~ Travel China Expert - 10/11/2008

Question
QUESTION: Hi,

I've been to China 20 times. Also Tibet.  Have 7-10 days in November and want to see the west.  Adventurous traveler.

Kashgar, Hotan, Dunhuang?

Can you suggest an itenerary or at least your top 5 from Xinjiang?

My traveling companion is Chinese, probably Han.  Will this be any concern?

Thanks,

William Younts

ANSWER: Dear Mr. Younts.
20 times to China! It seems you would be more of the China travel expert than I. That is very impressive. What is the nature of your travels?
It sounds like you already have Xinjiang well mapped out. Yes, Kashgar is a must, even if it is becoming a developed city and losing its "trading post" ambiance; there are still some delightful market neighborhoods orbiting the Id Kah mosque. I spent over a week in Kashgar and couldn't get enough.
http://www.jpgmag.com/photos/952891
Hotan (Hetian) is a must, especially on Sundays. The market is insane, and will literally take you back centuries. Bring money to spend, and bags to carry your treasures in. And of course a camera to capture it all on film.
http://chinaphotojournalist.blogspot.com/2007/03/hao-bizarre-how-bazaar-by-tom-c
Dunhuang is Gansu, but part of the Silk Road itinerary, and nice to get your sand-dune fix.
If you want some natural scenery, head up north to the Altai Mountains at the border. It's a stunning view, though lacking in culture.
The remote Uyghur villages up around the north-west mountain ranges are also very special, though challenging to get to in a limited time.
For a real adventure, try joining a trek through the Taklamakan Desert, though again you might not have enough time.
Lastly, I found that the Uyghur are a very warm and friendly people. I was always met with a smile and fell in love with their boisterous charm. Han Chinese dominate Ürümqi (a big city, not much to see though) and Kashgar, especially in commercial businesses, though I never witnessed any open hostilities towards them by the Uyghur. I think the key is to completely avoid any talk of politics or religion, then everything will go smooth as silk (pun intended).
That's my personal perspective of Xinjiang.
Before you leave, feel free to check out my new book CHINA: Portrait of a People, which includes a thick chapter of photos from Xinjiang.
http://www.blacksmithbooks.com/9789889979942.htm
Thank you for writing. Please remember to rate my answer.
Best,
Tom Carter
http://chinapostcards.com

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I'm thinking of a carpet as momento.  Any suggestions?

Answer
I myself also picked up some carpets in Kashgar and Hotan. You'll find lots of carpet shops all around the central old-town markets in both those cities. In Hotan, I specifically recall an entire street of carpet merchants. Amazing stuff. I can't offer you exact directions, but I can assure you that you will stumble upon them as you are walking around (I spent about ten hours a day tirelessly walking around Kashgar and Hotan). Just remember, Silk Road Muslims are some of the oldest traders in the world, and they drive a HARD bargain (much harder than the Chinese). They are also very proud, so they may refuse your offer just on principal if they don't take a liking to you. But then again, bargaining in Xinjiang is part of the whole point in going! So have fun!
Tom Carter
author, CHINA: Portrait of a People
http://www.blacksmithbooks.com/9789889979942.htm
http://chinapostcards.com