AboutRoland Finston Expertise I specialize in Chrysler/Dodge cars, minivans, and SUV's for the years 1982-2005 based upon my 50-year DIY experience and factory shop manuals. I don't have expertise/manuals for Jeeps or Imports. Unfortunately the power supply on my computer failed, so I need to fix that before I can take questions. If I am shown as "maxed out" try again, in an hour, as I may be answering another question or otherwise busy. There are answers to ten thousand Chrysler questions at your finger tips: put a few key words in the "find" box (above) or click on "view past answers".
Question fault code of 17.
Snow storm up here in wisconsin so I cant do much troubleshooting on it sadly. I have the lanadu version, so that's a V6 3.0. 136HP i think. displacement on that engine is 2967cc.
I probably won't do the front myself. I don't have the spring compressor. I can do some mechanical things but nothing too indepth. Possibly the rear suspension I may consider doing. I have a haynes manual somewhere.
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Followup To
Question -
I've seen a million of these stalling questions. Usually after its been running this happens. usually when you turn it on and put it in gear. And usually when I'm at low speeds turning. It will shut off completely, need to put it in neutral and turn it on.
Could it be the distributor plate I hear a lot about? I don't see it on napa's catalog. I have yet to replace anything until I know about it.
Hate to ask 2 questions:
Also, are there air shocks on these cars? I think mine has it, possibly aftermarket. It hasn't been serviced in years and I push down on the front/back even a little and it rocks like a boat, horrible on the interstate.
Thank You
Answer -
Hello Andy,
On the stalling question, there are a number of possible reasons ranging from spark plugs that have not been changed for more than 25,000 miles to various engine control issues. But one way to reduce the uncertainty is to readout the engine controller to see if it has noticed any malfunctions and identified them as Faults. There is a two digit code number for each fault, and you can obtain the numbers by a simple technique.
Begin a readout as follows: Take your ignition key and turn the ignition switch "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on". Do this switching quickly so that no more than 5 seconds elapses. Then watch the 'check engine' light to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and make a note of them in the order that they come. The last two flash groups will be 5 in each. Repeat the readout until you have the numbers accurately (the same result, two times in a row). Then pair the numbers two at a time in the order they came, to form two-digit numbers, for example the last number will be 55 which is the code for "end of readout". Then write back and tell me the other numbers that came out and I'll see if any of them are related to your problem.
On the wallowing of the suspension, that certainly sounds like the shocks in the back are worn out, as are the shock absorber "struts" used on the front end. The rear ones are easily changed, requiring simple nut removal to slip then old shock off their mounting bolts.
The front strunts are more challenging because you have to remove the shock and the coil sping surrounding it (this is called a strut) and you have clamp the coil spring with a suspension lowering or coil spring clamp while the car is on the ground, then when you jack it up the spring will be in a safe configuration for later removal. In addition you have to take off the axle nut and a couple of bolts on the suspension to allow for the removal of the strut assembly. You need a good set of sockets and ratchets, and a torque wrench plus written instructions to do it correctly. After you are done the front end needs to be aligned. The shocks cost about $25 each and the struts about $50 each. So let me know if you have the tools and interest to do the work yourself and I'll xerox a copy of the instructions and mail them to you.
Let me know what the readout of the controller shows. Also tell me which engine type you have and its displacement.
Roland
Answer Hi Andy,
The code 17 means that the either the coolant temp sensor correctly reports that the engine is running too cool OR that the sensor thinks the engine is running too cool because it is out of caliabration. I suspect the latter, but it could be either. Tht sensor is located on the top of the engine, left side, right next to the thermostat housing manifold with the top radiator hose attached to it. It has 2 wires (tan/white, black/light blue) for id. You can check it with an ohmmeter: it should read 700 to 1,000 ohms with the engine coolant warmed to 200F and 7,000 to 13,000 ohms at 70F, and even higher in Wisconsin in the winter! You can probably test it in a pan of water with a thermometer if you don't believe the engine temp gauge which is operated by a different sensor (200F should normally be mid-range on the gauge). If that sensor was off value, it would cause a too rich mixture after warm up and thus the stall.
On the front suspension, you only need to buy a coil clamp kit (to lower the car a la hot rod) and apply it while the car is standing on the ground with the spring compressed already by the weight of the vehicle. That is enough compression to remove the coil from the strut once you get it off. But be sure to use all the clamps in the kit on each spring, do one side at a time, because you don't want the compressed spring to get out of control!
Roland
