AboutRoland Finston Expertise I take questions about domestic Chrysler-product front wheel drive cars and minivans for the years 1982-2000 based upon my experience and shop manuals. I don't have detailed information (e.g. manuals) nor expertise for Jeeps, trucks, SUV's, import vehicles, or for years more recent than 2000 (except Sebring/Stratus I have '03).
I am available to take a question between 8AM CT and 9PM CT, and attempt to provide an answer within 1 hour. If I am shown as "maxed out" try again later in the day as I add question opportunities one at a time so as to respond quickly, but I do have other responsibilities as well so may not be available for several hours at times. Try at 7PM CST as I will always be available for one question then.
There are answers to hundreds of Chrysler questions at your finger tips: click on "view past answers", one of which may be to your question as well; or put a few key words in the "search for" box, above.
Experience I have been a do-it-yourself auto hobbyist for 5 decades, and most recently have been concentrating on the various Chrysler Corporation domestic front wheel drive cars and vans. I have shop manuals and wiring diagrams for many models for the years '83-'00, as well as rear wheel drive cars for the early 80's. I enjoy analyzing problems that other Chrysler enthusiasts are having and sharing my information.
Organizations belong to Group co-moderator of the Yahoo autos group The Chrysler LeBaron Club
Expert: Roland Finston Date: 5/14/2008 Subject: 96 Plymoth Voyager no starter motor/stalling
Question Roland,
My 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE with the 3.3 engine will die on the highway, and when it does, the starter will not turn for about five to ten minutes. So I coast to a stop and sit wherever I am attempting to get the starter to turn. Everything else electrical seems to work normally, radio, lights, flashers, etc, except the noise that is normally heard when the switch is turned from Off to Run does not happen. I believe that is the fuel pump running for a second. Also, the five beeps don’t occur. But I know that even removing the fuel pump relay will not prevent the starter from turning. After a short while the starter will turn, the van starts immediately, and I will continue driving. It might happen again in a mile or hundreds of miles later. This same condition also can happen with the car off for several minutes or overnight. I will attempt to start it and the starter will not turn. But if I wait a while it will turn and the van will start with no problem. This problem has not happened at the dealership or my usual mechanic. They have both had it about a month. The mechanic replaced the ignition switch, but the problem continues. I have done a lot of checking of the starting system and I think the Powertrain Control Module is not grounding pin 85 on the starter motor relay. What condition could exist that will cause the PCM to shut down the fuel system and also not let the starter motor turn for 10 minutes or so. Is the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor involved? Is there anyway the Body Control Module is tied in? I have some problems with wipers and door locks too. Thanks for your help.
Vance
Answer Hi Vance,
The starter relay does have to be grounded by the PCM, and to do that it needs to get an OK from the TCM that it is in park or neutral. The P/N switch may be out of adjustment so try moving the shift lever a little to either side of the detent position to check that possibility.
Otherwise I would wonder about fuses that supply the PCM and TCM (15,16,17,28 in the underhood box, and 2,10,12 in the underdash box) so take a very close look at those to see if any may have a subtle crack which might open/close with use. Also check the ground wires to the battery - clamp on the left frame rail and the rear of the engine block to be sure they are shiny and tight. The 1 second fuel pump is independent of the sensors, it is automatic control by the PCM. So I would wonder about the power supply to the PCM for that reason (fuses/grounds). The body controller shouldn't be involved, except for the wiper/door lock aspects. But again, that would first involve checking on the fuses (19,22,28 under the hood, 1,2,3,6, under the dash)/grounds (left kick panel, in front of the door opening).
So do that, and then if you don't find anything we can discuss readings you can do with a voltmeter when it is in the failed state.
Roland
