AboutRoland Finston Expertise I take questions about domestic Chrysler-product front wheel drive cars and minivans for the years 1982-2000 based upon my experience and shop manuals. I don't have detailed information (e.g. manuals) nor expertise for Jeeps, trucks, SUV's, import vehicles, or for years more recent than 2000 (except Sebring/Stratus I have '03).
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Experience I have been a do-it-yourself auto hobbyist for 5 decades, and most recently have been concentrating on the various Chrysler Corporation domestic front wheel drive cars and vans. I have shop manuals and wiring diagrams for many models for the years '83-'00, as well as rear wheel drive cars for the early 80's. I enjoy analyzing problems that other Chrysler enthusiasts are having and sharing my information.
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Expert: Roland Finston Date: 7/21/2008 Subject: 1999 Chrysler Sebring Coupe: horn problem
Question Do you have a description of the horn circuitry? Thank You Kindly
Answer Hi David,
Which model coupe, please? And can you tell me the history of what you have tried to do to solve the problem, which I presume is a "no horn"?
You can use the "thank and rate" tab to get back to me quickly where there is a comments section you can use. Then I'll respond via a follow-up answer.
Roland
Hi David,
The circuit is provided power by dedicated fuse #2 (15A) in the box that is under the hood,(middle one of three in the top row). It sends current to the horn relay, both its actuation coil and is closure points. The actuation coil then connects through a flexible coupling at the steering wheel called the 'clocksping' whose purpose is to ground the other end of the actuation coil and thus close the relay. The current flows through the relay contacts to the horn proper. After checking the fuse, you could then identify the horn relay in the same relay box, bottom row next to the far right one. Pull the relay, and identify from its labelling or the socket labels pins 4 and 5. If you jump a wire across 4 and 5 the horn will sound if it and the wiring are good. If it blows, then either the relay isn't closing or the clockspring has "opened up" and needs to be replaced. You could check the clockspring by measuring the resistance between pin 1 of the relay socket and ground. It should be infinite until you press the horn button in which case it should read close to 0 ohms, If that doesn't happen, and the ohmmeter continues to read infinite, then the clockspring needs to be replaced. Usually the clockspring is the weakest link in this circuit.
So do the testing and let me know what you need to know.
Roland
