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About Roland Finston
Expertise
I take questions about domestic Chrysler-product front wheel drive cars and minivans for the years 1982-2000 based upon my experience and shop manuals. I don't have detailed information (e.g. manuals) nor expertise for Jeeps, trucks, SUV's, import vehicles, or for years more recent than 2000 (except Sebring/Stratus I have '03). I am available to take a question between 8AM CT and 9PM CT, and attempt to provide an answer within 1 hour. If I am shown as "maxed out" try again later in the day as I add question opportunities one at a time so as to respond quickly, but I do have other responsibilities as well so may not be available for several hours at times. Try at 7PM CT as I will always be available for one question then. There are answers to hundreds of Chrysler questions at your finger tips: click on "view past answers", one of which may be to your question as well; or put a few key words in the "search for" box, above.

Experience
I have been a do-it-yourself auto hobbyist for 5 decades, and most recently have been concentrating on the various Chrysler Corporation domestic front wheel drive cars and vans. I have shop manuals and wiring diagrams for many models for the years '83-'00, as well as rear wheel drive cars for the early 80's. I enjoy analyzing problems that other Chrysler enthusiasts are having and sharing my information.

Organizations belong to
Group co-moderator of the Yahoo autos group The Chrysler LeBaron Club

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Auto Repair > Chrysler Repair > 2001 Chrysler Disk Brakes

Topic: Chrysler Repair



Expert: Roland Finston
Date: 7/6/2008
Subject: 2001 Chrysler Disk Brakes

Question
I have a 2001 Chrysler.  It is a PT in fact, but the question I have can apply to **any** car with this problem.  I have ABS and rear disk brakes and I recently replaced the front pads and rotors.  As I have 75,000 km on it I thought that it would be worthwhile to also bleed and replace the brake fluid.  Unfortunately, the bleed fittings on the rear calipers (at least those) are siezed. My question is this: Can you suggest a means to release the fittings OR should I give up the task for the risk of shearing them off.  I don't tow anything, however, the car is driven in Canada and therefore, I otherwise consider it to apply to the "severe" service category in the owner's manual regarding maintenance requirements.
Thanks for your help.

Answer
Hi Andrew,
If you can let it stand for about a day, or at least overnight, I would try some penetrating oil or WD-40 on the thread/cylinder interface, repeated applications if practical, in small amounts with gentle tapping on the fitting to encourage penetration into the threads. And you would want to use a box end wrench of the proper size when you later try gently rocking the fitting back and forth to ultimately loosen it up for removal. No brute force. Sooner or later you will want to bleed these lines so why not do it now before it gets more bound up? Tightening torque is about 10 foot-pounds on the bleeder so you would want to stay in that range for removal too.
Roland

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