AboutRoland Finston Expertise I take questions about domestic Chrysler-product front wheel drive cars and minivans for the years 1982-2000 based upon my experience and shop manuals. I don't have detailed information (e.g. manuals) nor expertise for Jeeps, trucks, SUV's, import vehicles, or for years more recent than 2000 (except Sebring/Stratus I have '03).
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Experience I have been a do-it-yourself auto hobbyist for 5 decades, and most recently have been concentrating on the various Chrysler Corporation domestic front wheel drive cars and vans. I have shop manuals and wiring diagrams for many models for the years '83-'00, as well as rear wheel drive cars for the early 80's. I enjoy analyzing problems that other Chrysler enthusiasts are having and sharing my information.
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Expert: Roland Finston Date: 7/19/2008 Subject: '88 stalled and won't restart, no spark
Question 1988 Reliant 2.2 stalled and wont restart. Pretty sure it's the fuel pump, as no HUM is coming from it, also there is no spark. Timing belt appears to be functioning. I've tried dumping fuel right into the throttle body and it won't start that way either. A thought I had was that there is a sensor that controls the spark. How can I check for spark? I've tried the old school way...nothing. Also, does the 1988 Plymouth Reliant have a diagnostic port and where can I find it if it does?
Thanks,
Paula
Answer Hi Paula,
The fuel pump should run for about 1 second when you turn the key to the 'run' position. If not, then it isn't getting voltage from the ASD relay which is the frontmost one on the left inner fender. See if you have 12V on the red wire at that relay. If not, then you have a blown fusible link at the rear of the battery (white in color), That red wire is connected directly to the battery so it should be "hot" all the time. If it is, then the engine controller should energize the relay for 1 second. If not, then the relay could be bad, or the engine controller isn't turning it on. If it does turn it on (check dark green/black wire at the relay) then the fuel pump should sound for a second and similarly the + post of the spark coil should have 12v for 1 second.
If you have that 1 second response, but not 12v at those points when cranking, then the hall-effect sensor in the distributor is bad, so replace that.
Check for codes with the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on", doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains "on", to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat for accuracy. Then group the numbers in pairs in the order of appearance to form the two digit fault codes. 55 is always the last code as it means "end of readout". 11 means the hall sensor is bad, etc. Let me know other codes.
There is a 6 pin socket behind the battery for OBD-I type of reader, but there may not be easy access to that. So try the ignition key approach. The spark can best be assessed the old fashion way with the screwdriver inserted in a spark plug cap and then held by the insulated handle with the shaft 1/4" from the block.
Let me know how this works out.
