AboutRoland Finston Expertise I take questions about domestic Chrysler-product front wheel drive cars and minivans for the years 1982-2000 based upon my experience and shop manuals. I don't have detailed information (e.g. manuals) nor expertise for Jeeps, trucks, SUV's, import vehicles, or for years more recent than 2000 (except Sebring/Stratus I have '03).
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Experience I have been a do-it-yourself auto hobbyist for 5 decades, and most recently have been concentrating on the various Chrysler Corporation domestic front wheel drive cars and vans. I have shop manuals and wiring diagrams for many models for the years '83-'00, as well as rear wheel drive cars for the early 80's. I enjoy analyzing problems that other Chrysler enthusiasts are having and sharing my information.
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Expert: Roland Finston Date: 7/2/2008 Subject: Cirrus 2.5L dies after 10 minutes
Question Hello Roland, Iīm here again with the same problem in my CIRRUS.
Look: My car dies while is running. About 10 Min, I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor, but when i meassure this sensor it meassure 600 Ohms when itīs hot and 6000 ohms when its cool, so i wonder if thatīs ok o or not?...I buy it in Autozone, itīs NEW. And JUST i recived a PCM for my car, itīs programmed with my VIN, and it comes from MIAMI USA, so i supposed my PCM itīs completely ok...4 HOURS AGO my car Dies again: When my car begin to fail, the tachometer moves slowly with littles jumps down and up, like my car was drown, and keeping going until my car dies. The jumps of the tachometer become bigger when the car fails more.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" ligth, start to flash, and is flashing until my car dies.
I have OBSERVED something : This morning While my car was failing i disconnect the IAT sensor and the car established, before this i eliminate the EGR VALVE............YESTERDAY i did the same thing(tHIS TIME the EGR VALVE and the IAT sensor was connected) While MY CAR was failing i Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor, and the car ESTABLISHED...So i wonder if there is a ploblem with a Vaccum or something...I need help. What else could be that problem :(...I donīt know what to do....And there is no codes.
Answer Hi Brian,
Did you check the IAT resistance when cold and when hot? It should be responding similarly as the engine coolant sensor, which appears to be working based upon your ohm reading.
All the experimentation with disconnecting that you are doing is difficult to interpret because eash one affect the engine differently.
What about the O2 (oxygen) sensor? That may be faulty based upon the OBD-II readout that you did. That sensor is not called into service until the engine warms up, so that could explain the delay in this problem until 10 minutes or so. That would be worth replacing, I would believe.
Are you still trying for fault codes using the key/check engine light and the OBD-II reader? Do you at least get a 55 code?
Roland