AboutRoland Finston Expertise I take questions about domestic Chrysler-product front wheel drive cars and minivans for the years 1982-2000 based upon my experience and shop manuals. I don't have detailed information (e.g. manuals) nor expertise for Jeeps, trucks, SUV's, import vehicles, or for years more recent than 2000 (except Sebring/Stratus I have '03).
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Experience I have been a do-it-yourself auto hobbyist for 5 decades, and most recently have been concentrating on the various Chrysler Corporation domestic front wheel drive cars and vans. I have shop manuals and wiring diagrams for many models for the years '83-'00, as well as rear wheel drive cars for the early 80's. I enjoy analyzing problems that other Chrysler enthusiasts are having and sharing my information.
Organizations belong to Group co-moderator of the Yahoo autos group The Chrysler LeBaron Club
Expert: Roland Finston Date: 7/8/2008 Subject: spark plug changing on 2.5L V-6
Question my 96 sebring lxi (156,000 miles) recently started misfiring. Upon taking it to a local mechanic I was informed that it needed the spark plugs replaced. I know this can be a challenging task with the 6 cylinder model. I simply can't afford the $600 dollars I was told the process would cost. I am good with my hands, a do it yourselfer, know some automotive basics, and have replaced spark plugs before, but never something this involved, is this something I could likely do on my own? Is it something I can do with minimal tools? Or should I buck up and start selling my worldly possessions?
help!!
Answer Hi Geoff,
Here are the steps for removing and replacing the plugs on cyl 1,3,and 5 of the 2.5L V-6:
Disconnect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal (I believe this is the ground wire tied to the strut tower on the driver's (left) side of the car).
Unplug the connectors from the MAP sensor and (just to its front) the intake air temp sensor.
Remove the plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of the MAP sensor
Remove the bolt holding the air inlet resonator (the thing with words "multi-point injection") to the intake plenum.
Loosen throttle body air inlet hose clamp
Release snaps holding air cleaner housing cover housing
Remove air cleaner cover and inlet hoses from the engine
Unplug throttle position sensor and idle air control motor connectors.
Pry retainer tab back on throttle cable and slide cable out of bracket. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Slide Speed control cable out of bracker, if equipped. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Remove EGR tube from intake plenum.
Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of EGR tube
Remove bolts holding upper intake plenum and remove plenum
Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion
Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug
Remove the spark plug using a quality spark plug socket with a rubber foam insert
Inspect spark plug condition.
To avoid cross-threading start the plug into the cylinder head by hand
Tighten the spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 N-m)
Install ignition cables over spark plugs
Install new gasket and position upper intake plenum. Tighten blots to 13 ft-lbs (18 N-m)
Install bolts at plenum support brackets (Same torque as above)
Install EGR tube at plenum. Tighten EGR tube to intake manifold plenum screws to 8 ft-lbs (11 N-m)
Install throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables
Attach electrical connectors to sensors.
Install air inlet tube clamp to to 25+/- 5 inch pounds (3 +/- 1 N-m)
Connect negative terminal to auxiliary jumper terminal.
While I haven't done this myself, I see no reason why you couldn't do it with the proper metric tools.
There are some figures that show the parts which might be helpful but I don't have a document scanner. If you want the xerox copy of the pages let me know along with a postal address and I'll mail them to you. Best of luck with the project.
Roland
