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Bailey Sims wrote at 2011-07-23 18:50:26
I think he's having the same problem that I am. My 300 will not crank either. All I hear is a buzzing sound coming from both the front and back relay switches every time I try and start it. I just had the battery replaced yesterday as well. Also, when I put the key into the ignition and turn it into the "on" position, everything in the car flickers. I really don't know whats going on with it.


Bill wrote at 2012-12-15 22:43:56
My Chrysler 300 engine won't turn over everytime either, I hear 1 click, and nothing. Sometimes I will put it in gear, then park , and it fires right up, can you tell me what needs to be replaced?


Saenz_Edgar wrote at 2014-04-22 05:46:50
the problem that I experienced with a Chrysler 300 this weekend is that the starter relay is working as it in fact does click. However, the Starter solenoid relay does not engage. The fact that the Starter really is clicking states that the Winmodule is doing its work in detecting the key and its respective functions such as Tire pressure Monitoring and 3 more are also in line. Subsequently, the Haynes manual?? starter diagram is worthless for this car.The diagram for the started circuit shows the Starter Relay signal is generated from the ignition key but does not every mention the WinModule. I traced the starter really signals and they are generated by the PCM.   At any rate when I manually start the motor, I would expect the motor to run and also expect what while the key is in the Run position the fuel rails would be pressurized to about a nominal of 40PSI. such pressure is not easily verified because this vehicle, unlike any other car I have ever worked on, puts the pressure inlet hidden. So one has to assume there is fuel because one hear the fuel pump spin but because I would not verity I put starting fluid and still did not start.  Tried to check and see if there is at least 25000 volts across the plugs but wait, now you can not. One has to get an Oscilloscope and watch the Pulse come through and have it trigger with with the Crank Sensor. To add to the so badly designed motor topology, 3 cylinder spark plugs are accessible the other three are under the intake manifold which means that to replace plugs, what used to take 30 minutes or so, will take 2 hours or more. Moreover, try to get to the starter, Whole Mother of God, I need midget hands to get to it! Nice concept to provide a true rear while drive, Engineers. I am so glad I do not own this POS and would only find me driving this as a rental. If it breaks, I take it back to them and it is the dealers problems.!



But it gets worse! When I got the news from my friend that it would not start and the mechanics had diagnosed the Ignition switch, I took a picture of the fuse box for them to sell me a started relay, just in case it had gone bad.I purchased the 30 dollar relay only to find out that the unit they sold me was not the Starter relay, even thought the Dealer's computer showed it to be what they sold me. In other words, it shows that dealers now a days have very poor documentation. That has been the case for years as I discover when I bought the shop manuals for my Buick Super Charged Riviera. That thing was missing chapters and some of the diagnosing sequences were completely wrong.



I have not shared with anyone yet what I will have to do to get this car running without having to pay for the 1500 dollars it would cost me to replace the PCM and the added cost to program keys etc..



Thanks for letting me vent! but what a mess. It is no wonder the Dodge dealer is always back logged. I would hate to be the mechanic trying to get this problems resolved. I guess I would resolve to a shot gun approach which would work well for a very rich person and not too well for someone who is struggling to make ends meet. I am putting this out there so that it is public knowledge. You buy a V6 Chrysler and it breaks down by not starting and having intermittent power downs, you are in for a good ride and unfortunately off the car.  


Saenz_Edgar wrote at 2014-04-22 05:47:19
the problem that I experienced with a Chrysler 300 this weekend is that the starter relay is working as it in fact does click. However, the Starter solenoid relay does not engage. The fact that the Starter really is clicking states that the Winmodule is doing its work in detecting the key and its respective functions such as Tire pressure Monitoring and 3 more are also in line. Subsequently, the Haynes manual?? starter diagram is worthless for this car.The diagram for the started circuit shows the Starter Relay signal is generated from the ignition key but does not every mention the WinModule. I traced the starter really signals and they are generated by the PCM.   At any rate when I manually start the motor, I would expect the motor to run and also expect what while the key is in the Run position the fuel rails would be pressurized to about a nominal of 40PSI. such pressure is not easily verified because this vehicle, unlike any other car I have ever worked on, puts the pressure inlet hidden. So one has to assume there is fuel because one hear the fuel pump spin but because I would not verity I put starting fluid and still did not start.  Tried to check and see if there is at least 25000 volts across the plugs but wait, now you can not. One has to get an Oscilloscope and watch the Pulse come through and have it trigger with with the Crank Sensor. To add to the so badly designed motor topology, 3 cylinder spark plugs are accessible the other three are under the intake manifold which means that to replace plugs, what used to take 30 minutes or so, will take 2 hours or more. Moreover, try to get to the starter, Whole Mother of God, I need midget hands to get to it! Nice concept to provide a true rear while drive, Engineers. I am so glad I do not own this POS and would only find me driving this as a rental. If it breaks, I take it back to them and it is the dealers problems.!



But it gets worse! When I got the news from my friend that it would not start and the mechanics had diagnosed the Ignition switch, I took a picture of the fuse box for them to sell me a started relay, just in case it had gone bad.I purchased the 30 dollar relay only to find out that the unit they sold me was not the Starter relay, even thought the Dealer's computer showed it to be what they sold me. In other words, it shows that dealers now a days have very poor documentation. That has been the case for years as I discover when I bought the shop manuals for my Buick Super Charged Riviera. That thing was missing chapters and some of the diagnosing sequences were completely wrong.



I have not shared with anyone yet what I will have to do to get this car running without having to pay for the 1500 dollars it would cost me to replace the PCM and the added cost to program keys etc..



Thanks for letting me vent! but what a mess. It is no wonder the Dodge dealer is always back logged. I would hate to be the mechanic trying to get this problems resolved. I guess I would resolve to a shot gun approach which would work well for a very rich person and not too well for someone who is struggling to make ends meet. I am putting this out there so that it is public knowledge. You buy a V6 Chrysler and it breaks down by not starting and having intermittent power downs, you are in for a good ride and unfortunately off the car.  


Saenz_Edgar wrote at 2014-04-22 23:13:20
2008 Chrysler 300 Starting issues and project status report.

Date: April 22nd, 2014

By Edgar Saenz.



Introduction



This particular Chrysler 300 started out by not starting when the key is turned to the start position and the problem presented itself as described below.



1. User Approaches the car and with the key unlocks the doors.

2. When the user inserted the Key and turned it to the “ON" position the car acted normally by show all dashboard lights and when the door was open by activating the chimes.

3. User then made an attempt to start the vehicle by turning the key one more click clockwise and at that point the Motor failed to turn over.



Investigation Summary:



When the key was moved to the start engine position, the starter relay is working as expected because the relay had an audible click or sound. However, the Starter solenoid relay did not engage. The fact that the Starter relay is clicking states that the Winmodule is doing its work in detecting the key and its respective functions such as tire pressure monitoring and approving the user is safe to start the car. Be aware that the Haynes manual starter diagram is incorrect for this car. The diagram for the started circuit shows the Starter Relay signal is generated from the ignition key but does not mention the WinModule. I traced the starter relay signals and they are generated by the PCM.   At any rate, when the relay is actuated manually to start the motor, even though the motor turns, the motor fails to run on its own while in the key is in the Run position.  The fuel rails sound pressurized when the key is moved to its ON position and should reach about a nominal 40 PSI. The fuel pressure is not easily verified because the vehicle, unlike any other car I have ever worked on, places the pressure inlet some where under the intake manifold. Since assuming makes something out of you and me, I put starting fluid into the intake manifold which still did not help matters.  Next, I tried to check and see if there is at least ~25000 volts across the plugs but now you can’t. One has to get an Oscilloscope and watch a cylinder digital signal come through and have it triggered with with the Crank Sensor which still does not guarantee that the coil is working. To add to the so badly designed motor topology, 3 cylinder spark plugs are accessible the other three are under the intake manifold which means that to replace plugs, what used to take 30 minutes or so, will take 2 hours or more. Moreover, try to get to the starter and you might need a person with really small hands or remove the engine cradle to get to it.  Nice concept to provide a true rear while drive but very poor implementation for people that eventually have to work on it. In addition, OBDII codes state that there is no problem with the car.



Question still remains.



Why is the relay getting to click but the starter not energized?





A picture of the fuse box was needed for the dealer to find us starter relay. I purchased the 30 dollar relay only to find out that the unit they sold me was not the Starter relay, even thought the Dealer's computer showed it to be what they sold me. This shows that dealers still have not improved their documentation efforts..  Once I found the correct relay and hear it click when the key was turned to Ignition Start, the relay’s control signal can be read as 10 Volts instead of 12.45 Volts. This is the cause of the problem.!



How To fix it?



There are two ways to fix the problem.,



Problem Relay.



1. Go by the dealer and by a new PCM at the price of 1000 dollars.

   Since the PCM now has a new ID the WInModule is not talking to it and needs to be reprogrammed. New Added cost for programming is attained.

   Since I took the Winmodule casing off to fix switch number 3, the dealer will want to replace it with a new one instead of patching up the case on a working        one. Add 500 dollars to the final price.

  Note: if there is a faulty wire on the starter relay then all of these will be useless and mechanics will have to replace the wiring as well at a cost of 500          dollars for the wiring not including labor and at this point they might have it running. Time estimated, 6 days if the parts are in stock.

2. Chase the wires and see if the voltage drops is caused by faulty wiring. if is that correct the wiring problem by jumping it or fixing the net.

   Note: still need to figure out why the motor turns but it does not start.





Problem Fuel and Firing?



TBD.




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