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Chrysler Repair/97 dodge neon sohc: dies then recovers after cooling

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QUESTION: Car cranks but will not start.  Each time I have had to push the car out of the way.  After pushing the car, it starts and runs fine for days and weeks.  Sitting a while, especially in damp weather seems to make it happen more frequently.  Fuel pump works.  Spark not present.  Tried a new coil without success.  Cleaned all connectors to coil, computer, fuse box.  Today after sitting unresponsive for 3 weeks checking every other day to so, moved it 30 feet and it started and ran fine. Any ideas?

ANSWER: Hi Peter,
That sounds to me like either the cam or crank sensor has gotten flakey which causes it to fail when warmed up, but recover quickly as it cools. If you have an Autozone nearby you can get a free readout of the engine computer for fault codes which would tell you which one has failed. Or try the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer widow to see if it shows new 4-digit numbers, or watch the check engine light which may flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat. Then let me know any numbers that you get by either the odometer, readout, or check engine light.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Got the Code  1 - 2 - 1 - 1 - 5 - 5

Would fail cold or hot, but actually moving the non-running car would allow it to start again right away.
Also, do they make a bushing repair kit for the manual 5 speed?  They wore out completely .. though it still shifts fine, just sloopy.

Thanks,
Peter

Answer
Hi Peter,
The 12 code means the battery was disconnected recently. The 55 code means 'end of readout'. The relevant code is 11 which implicates the crank position sensor as the cause of the problem. It is located on the firewall side of the engine, at the seam between the engine and the transmission, just above the transmission housing. It is held in place by a single screw. Remove the electical connector by gently lifting the tab and pulling. Then remove the screw. The replacement unit will have spacer on its tip which should be left in place. Insert it and press it down so that the tip touches the hidden surface below, then while holding it in contact tighten the screw that holds it in place. The re-attach connector.
I don't know about replacement parts. I would go to a dealer parts counter and ask there.
Roland

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Roland Finston

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I take questions one at a time between 8am and 9pm CT and try to respond within 20 minutes. If I am shown as "MAXED OUT" try again at the 'top' of the hour as I may be answering another question or am otherwise busy. I specialize in Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth cars, minivans, and SUV's for the model years 1982-2006 based upon my 50-year DIY experience, factory shop manuals and wiring diagrams. I offer fast repair advice to help you minimize repair costs by helping you diagnose and do it yourself. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. There are answers on file to more than fifteen thousand Chrysler questions at your finger tips: put a few key words in the "find" box (above) or click on "view past answers" for a chronological list of my q and a's. Don't use "Add to this answer" if you still have a question...ask it. I don't have manuals for truck or Jeep (except'04-'06).

Experience

Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars

Organizations
Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Education/Credentials
Degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles.

Awards and Honors
"Shortest average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1). "Top expert of 2010" at Allexperts. Among top 50 experts for years 2006-2009 at Allexperts. "Volunteer of the month" at Allexperts (June, 2011).

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