Expert: Roland Finston - 11/3/2011

Question
QUESTION: 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan, 163K, 3.3L, 4-spd

I have following questions:
1) I see oil around the valve covers. I don't see any problem with the engine running yet. When does it become critical to replace the gaskets? I mean when should I be alarmed that it must be done now. Is there any other ill-effect other than oil on engine?
2) If I decide to replace the valve covers, Can I remove the rear valve cover without removing the intake air plenum?
3) Do double platinum plugs needs adjustment of the gap? I see it takes too much effort to do so on the rear ones; I prefer changing these with new ones. Are there any tell-tale signs of plugs not working properly? Again, when should I be alarmed?
4) Is there any manual adjustment for the parking brake? As I see it from my Haynes manual, it appears the adjustment mechanism is automatic.

Thanks in advance for your help!

ANSWER: Hi Shafique,
If the loss is slow then I would not be too concerned about it. You could try torqueing the bolts that you can access to reduce the loss. The 'isolated type' have a torque spec of 90 inch-pounds, the non-isolated type of 105 inch-pounds. In the extreme, if the oil gets thick on the block it could increase the risk/result of an engine fire but that would be a larger leak over long periods of time. It would also reduce the surface cooling of the head/block to have it coated heavily with grease, but that would not be a decisive factor in cooling.
The rear cover can only be removed when you remove the intake air upper plenum and the wiper motor unit.
Plug changing is typically done at 100,000 mile intervals. Modern ignition system voltages and plugs have led to this longevity of the plugs.  Hard starting/missing would be a possible affect of plugs that are worn out, but those too could be caused by other aspects of the ignition system.
The park brake mechanism autmatically adjusts. You can lock out that feature to service tha cable and the pedal lever.  But if the rear brakes themselves are adjusted properly then the automatic cable adjust should take care of the rest. Let me know if you need to know how to lock out the mechanism for servicing the cables/pedal.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Regarding spark plugs, I understand that there is no need to adjust the gap. I just change plugs after 100k miles, right?

Regarding park brake, please keep in mind that the rear brakes on this model are disc brakes. If servicing the cables/pedals will help adjust the parking brake then I would definitely like to do it. Right now, the parking brake is not engaging; the van will slide a little on hill before the transmission P will hold it. I was thinking of adjustment and not sure what else I should look it. I checked the shoe pads and these are ok.

Thanks!

Answer
Hi Shafique,
That is correct about the spark plugs.
On the parking brake issue, there is a star wheel type of adjuster which will allow you to bring the shoes closer to the parking brake drum. The manual suggests doing the adjustment by measurement using a caliper sort of device. The procedure involves removing the disc brake caliper first because presumably the adjustment of the parking brake shoes is in the end done by tightening the shoes just to the point of drag and then backing off one click, and it is possibly hard to distinguish the parking brake drag from the disc/pad drag of the main brake. There are a number of pages in the '98 manual that I have and which I could copy and postal mail to you there in Saudi Arabia. Would it be possible for you to reimburse me for the copy cost and postage to do that? Do you have a Paypal account?
So let me know what you like me to do and what is your postal mailing address.
Roland