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Chrysler Repair/1992 Fifth Avenue Not Starting Part 3

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QUESTION: Hi Roland,

    Sorry for the hit-and-miss nature of my responses, lots happening around here.  The anti-theft light is on (it reads 'SET' and is yellow) when I turn the key to 'on'.  When I cycled the key from 'off' to 'acc' three times I got no response.  Thanks again Roland-----Andy

ANSWER: Just to be clear, you did cycle to the accessory position and on the third cycle you left the key in that accessory position, correct?
I assume in times past that the anti-theft set light would not come on when you turned the ignition switch to "on" or what I have called 'run', correct?
Somehow we have to get the 'set' light turned off. Have the ignition 'off' and the key to the door in your pocket. Start by securing all the doors by means of the mechanical interior door lock buttons. Also be sure the hood is closed as is the trunk (and locked). Then unlock the driver door using the door key. Does that turn off the 'set light'? If not, try to unlock the passenger door key lock, using the key. Does that turn off the set light?
Let me know what happens.
I assume that you have the remote key module and the anti-theft modules both plugged in, corrct? Also verify the fuse #18 is patent.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Roland,

  #18 fuse is good.  I secured the car as you instructed and opened it with the key, and when I turned the key to run, the set light was still on.  I tried this first with the driver door, and then with the passenger door while the driver door was still unlocked.  The set light is still on.  Also the programming procedure for the fob is no longer working at all; I was hoping to get the light to go out this way.  If you think that's related, could you review programming procedure with me to be sure I did it right?  Also, the electric lock on the front drivers door doesn't work.  Not sure if that is related but trying to provide any info that might be relevant.  Thanks again for your time-------Andy

ANSWER: Hi Andy,
I doubt the keyless entry is the cause of the no start. But the procedure for programming it involves the dark green wire under the carpet located between the accelerator pedal and the air bag module. First you turn the ignition key to 'run/on' and then you ground that dark green wire, and then you press any button on your Fob, then remove the green wire from ground, and then fob should work.
On the theft system set light being 'on' try going to the 21-pin plug at the theft module:
First check that you have 12v on the red wire at pin 9 of the 21-pin plug.  Then use a couple of pins to probe the light green/orange wire on pin 18 and the black/light green on pin 11. Then short those two pins together momentarily and see if the light goes off. That action is replicating what you do with the door key in the driver's side door and perhaps that wire from the door key to module is 'open'.
Roland


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Roland,

    I checked the red wire on the 21-pin connector with the key off and got +12 to ground.  Then I shorted the two wires as you instructed.  Right when I touched them together the horn blew three times, and now the set light is out.  Unfortunately, the car will not start and the check engine light is still not coming on.  What do you make of it?  Thanks!------Andy

Answer
Is this a conventional (mechanical) cluster or an electronic cluster? The check engine light it wired differently depending upon which cluster you have.
Do you recall when is the last time you saw the check engine light and what might have happened about the time that it stopped illuminating?
We are trying to get it to work so that it might tell us why the engine won't start, I believe.
I am please that the theft set light is off now, presumably that system now has nothing to do with the no start.
Henceforth, because of the failure of the door lock to cancel the alarm and also the failure of the power door lock on the driver side it would be very wise to not invoke the power door locks or the fob for fear of setting up a no way to disarm the theft system except by what you just did. So don't use the power door locks or the key fob...instead only secure the doors by the mechanical push bottons (like the good old days) and don't even use the key to lock the doors. The wire(s) from the drivter door to the modules is clearly compromised. If you repair that issue in the future, so be it.

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Roland Finston

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Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.

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Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

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Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

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Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

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"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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