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Chrysler Repair/1995 Cirrus no spark no inj. pulse

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QUESTION: I've read most articles dealing with these as they are a
common issue and that most people have had the exact problems.

1995 Cirrus 2.5
no spark and no injector pulse

Have done many tips and suggestions that you have pointed to in other posts. Read as far back as 97 n some.

Here is what I've done. I'm also a mechanic but bouncing repairs off of people
fixes many cars as they offer "did you check this" and sends you in a different path.

Checked the easy stuff first. Battery is charged and the rotor is turning.
engine is in time.

All fuses are good and the ASD relay does work.

Have initial fuel pressure and at least current to the injectors while that is doing it's thing.
All the PCM grounds are clean and tight. Did double check the fuses again this morning.

No codes are present. Using the key method as I don't have a scanner.

THIS LEAD ME TO THE CRANK SENSOR. In the past they had issues with this as I found a receipt about 2 1/2 years old.
It was a aftermarket one so figured it was bad again. Changed it with a MOPAR 4807083.
Same problem.

Is it possible that I've got a bad one?? Can't really check it in the car to get a square wave from it.
Or does something else lead you in a different way.

Parts are expensive here on out so better ask.

ANSWER: Hi Jim,
Do you get a code 55 at least?
Is the fuel pump running and the power to the injectors and coil present while you are cranking it over? Check for that at fuse #1 in the front of the power box which will tell you if the ASD is closed while cranking.
If not, you could jump from the inboard to the outboard socket of the ASD relay which will then tell you whether the issue is related to the cam or crank sensors which are what are needed to close the ASD relay. If it won't run that way then you could check the output of the two sensors by turning the crank by hand with the key in the run position and monitor the pulsing of each sensor between the signal and ground wire of each. The voltage should oscillate between 5 and 0.3v as you turn if the sensor is good. The distributor sensor wires are on pin 33 and 43 of the pcm, while the crank sensor wires are 32 and 43.
Please 'rate' my answer (see below).
Thanks,

Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I do have current to the injectors and the coil during cranking.
Ang YES code 55 comes up.
Thanks. Didn't have a pin chart to tell me which one. Will do that after work tonight.

Sounds like 2 people are needed!

Do you have a ohms reading for this old sensor.
inside so 70 degrees. 3 wire. black, white, black.
just for kicks..

Thanks so far! Jim

ANSWER: Hi Jim,
I don't have any resistance values for the crank sensor but because it is solid state I would expect it to be very high on all readings. I think you can check the sensors alone because you will be turning the engine by hand, not cranking it over. The pulsations occur too rapidly to see them at cranking rpm.
If you do have current to coil and injectors while cranking then so too would I expect the fuel pump to be humming (though you may not be able to hear it). That suggests the ASD is closing which implies that at least the crank sensor is working.
But check both the sensor pulsations nonetheless to be sure it is there for both sensors as both are needed for spark and injector pulsing.
Is the rotor in the distributor OK, and have you checked the impedence of the primary and secondary of the spark coil? You said you don't have spark, correct?
Please 'rate' my answer.
Thanks,
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Have to work bell to bell until Sunday. Will mess with it then and update you and others that will read this in the future

Thanks for everything......

Answer
I will be interested in what you learn. Thanks for the rating/nomination and kind remarks.
PS When you solve this, which I know that you will, let me know the answer. Again thanks for the rating. If you find you have spark/fuel pump/injector power and pulations on both sensors, then it may be mixture. For example have you verified that the egr valve isn't stuck open slightly ajar? Lubricate the stem and 'exercise it'.

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Roland Finston

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Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.

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Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

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Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Education/Credentials
Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

Awards and Honors
"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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