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Chrysler Repair/98 2.5L: no start/no spark


QUESTION: My daughter car died no spark. After reading a few forums i decided to change the crank sensor. I also changed the shut down relay.
Tried to start it again but nothing. Next step I changed the dist.
After installing the dist before I had all the hardware on, egr tube,throttle cables,ext,ext
I gave it a shot. it fired right up for about 4 sec before i shut it down.Finishing hooking everything back up . Bam !!! No start
any pointer will be a great help.

Check to see if the egr valve might be sticky/crudy and therefor not closing tightly. Were it slightly ajar it would not start because the mixture is way lean. Put some WD-40 on the stem where it enter the valve body. Then move the stem back and forth with the tip of a screwdriver inserted in the slot of the valve stem. Make sure that the internal spring-action closes it to a dead stop. Then try and start it.
Then you could try jumping sideways across the shutdown relay socket's pins to see whether it will run that way or not to determine if it is an issue with the ASD not being activated. That of course is a temporary move and is not safe to drive it that way in case of an accident.  
Otherwise, a code readout is the next step using a plug-in code reader.
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QUESTION: I my haste and not proof reading my question. I see I left out a very important part.Its a no spark issue Fuel is not a problem.
and thanks

When it started following the install of a distributor, are you sure it was your turning it off that caused it to shutdown after 4 seconds or could the pcm have shut it off because the car has a vehicle security system and that is how it will behave when you try to start it without having disarmed that system?
You say that you then finished hooking everything back up: which of the 'everythings' involved electrical connections/wirings?
And are you sure there is no sparking even at the high voltage output socket of the distributor (testing that with the cap off)? Did both plugs at the distributor get reconnected. Are you getting 12v on the dark green/orange wire at the 2-wire plug of the distributor while cranking it over?
There has to be a reason as to why it did run for 4 seconds and now not so, that is related to exactly what happened between those two conditions.
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---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: OK let me get more detail. It didn't shut down till I turned the key to off.
I armed and unarmed the factory security system.I hooked everything electrical then turned on the car. What was left to hook up.was the intake tube filter box and egr tube.None of which would keep it from starting.I have not done the crank test yet with a meter hooked up.I did test the crank
sensor If I am not mistaken it had either 9.5 or 4.5.At the distributor
I had 9.5 at orange wire and it looks like yellow I may be wrong on the color but the output was 4.98.Both plugs at the dis were installed.Cleaned all connectors even tho the look good with contact cleaner.also I changed the asd relay.
Thanks for the help Roland

Hi Don,
To have spark you need to have 12v on the dark green/orange wire at the 2-pin plug of the distributor while cranking , and of course a pulsed primary coil grounding from the black/gray wire at pin 6 of the 6-pin plugwhich comes from pin 4 of the pcm. That pulsing requires the crank sensor to be pulsing between 5 and 0.3v as you rotate it by hand ao test that at pins 32 and 43 of the pcm and similarly pulsing between 33 and 43 from the distributor sensor as you turn the crankshaft by hand. The rotor has to be good of course. So check those out and see if you can find what is missing.
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Roland Finston


Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

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