Chrysler Repair/'96 Neon: Fault code 37
QUESTION: not sure how to describe it, i was driving on the high way then noticed my guages were all down like the car was off. I parked of road and turned the ignition of and on again nothing came on (battery, oil, seatbelt, Check light) i mean not even one came on. waited a few minutes and put the key again and all came on again. yesterday night it happened again i drove almost 30km before the guages came on. Today i was driving and felt like it was pulling forward then back forward then back, i pulled off the road when i shifted the gear to neutral the engine died. 2-4mins later i turned it on it started then died. waited 10mins it started fine and i got to work. THERE ARE NO CODES EXECPT 21 FOR OXYGEN SENSR.
In the past the speedometer used to be the one that would work on and off but the rest used to function. Now even the temperature guage , check light and all guages gets affected
ANSWER: Hi Tony,
There is one 40 amp fuse in the power distribution box in the engine compartment (labeled 'starter') that sends current to operate the starter solenoid switch AND part of the ignition switch that powers the instrument cluster and part of the engine control module. If the starter function has been working reliably then that fuse is probably alright but check it to be sure that it is seated in the fuse clips and that the clips are clean and shiny.
Then if only the cluster was flakey take a look at fuse 11 under the dash to see if it might have a crack in its internal wire that would make for an intermittent function. Similarly check fuse 10 which is powering the engine control module. Both of those fuse get their power from the ignition switch in the 'run' position. If the fuses look good then I would suspect the ignition switch itself is flakey in the section that powers up those two fuses. If you have a voltmeter or a 12v neon glow lamp check to see whether there is 12v on fuses 10 and 11 when you experience the loss of the cluster or the engine shuts down (while the ignition switch is still in the 'run' position). If they are 'cold', then either the ignition switch or the 40 amp fuse is 'open', so try the starter and if that too doesn't work then check to see if that big fuse is 'open'. If it is working, then I would conclude that you have a flakey section in the ignition switch proper.
You might try spraying some electrical contact cleaner inside the body of the ignition switch so as to clean up the switch section that is flakey.
Let me know if this approach doesn't resolve the problem.
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QUESTION: the fuse were changed and havent seen a problem yet except the speedometer that remains with this problem. THE other guages seem ok so far i drive same distance regularly roughly 35km at about 90km/hr. the other day it felt like it was pulling forward and back and when i came to a stop it died. TRIED to start but it died like its not getting petrol to the engine. Again it happened the following day coming to a bend reduced speed and it started stumbling like short on petrol. I noticed when i try to restart the petrol pump has a dull short sound and when you start after 30mins the petrol pump power on sound is normal longer Zzzz sound can be heard for that 5 sec or so . is it possible it might be getting clogged up? if so can it be cleaned. IF NOT hOW CAN I BE CERTAIN ITS THE CULPRIT
ANSWER: Hi Tony,
The pump operates the way you describe it so don't do anything with that part.
I would take a look at the exhaust gas recirculation valve (egr) which may be gummed up. It is located on the far end of a small diameter pipe that branches off the exhaust manifold and runs toward the throttle body. When you find it note that it has a round vacuum operated top piece and then a flange between that at the body of the valve proper. Inside that flange is a rod which is the valve stem which has a circumferential slot in it. Use the tip of a screwdriver inserted in the slot to move the stem in and out of the valve body. Spring-action will be felt which tries to close the valve. Spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body and then work the stem back and forth to free up the action. That may solve the stumbling that you experience. It happens because the valve is hanging up ajar rather than closing tightly when you slow down or accelerate.
On the speedo, that could be a damaged drive gear on the speed sensor, which happens if the right side drive shaft is pulled out of the differential without first removing the speen sensor. You may be able to get a replacement gear for that problem at a dealer parts counter.
Thanks for the past rating and nomination. You can do it again, up to 5 times, which if you would do it again for this answer would be most appreciated.
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QUESTION: Hi, i replaced my radiator over the weekend. and i took the car for a drive, it was ok, on my way back the freeway was blocked and cars had to crawl. after 30mins of this slow movement the car started stumbling turned off and did the key trick to check for manual code it gave me code 37 (12-37-55)
this morning i went to work with the car 40km distance and it drove ok, what does this code really mean and how best can i resolve it.
The 37 code is for the torque converter clutch circuit of the three speed automatic transmission having s problem. If you have that transmission then the code is relevant, otherwise not. If you do, then take a close look at fuse 10 which powers that circuit to be sure it doesn't have subtle crack in its internal wire. Otherwise, do you notice that the slight reduction in rpm that usually happens when your speed rises above 70 km/hr isn't happening? That would mean that the torque converter lock-up is not functioning so you loose a bit of fuel economy. If it isn't the fuse, then you will need to check the wiring to the solenoid located on the side of the transmission as the next step.
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