Chrysler Repair/anti theft no crank 2001 van
QUESTION: Hi on my 2001 Chrysler Town and Country the anti theft dot comes on solid when I turn the key, but the vehicle will not crank. I disconnected the solenoid wire, and the starter turns the vehicle over perfectly. Do you know of any way to disable the anti theft? I tried pulling the IOD fuse to reset it, and also disconnected the battery overnight. Nothing helped. Thank you in advance
ANSWER: Hi Dave,
The solid 'on' light apparently indicated that the sentry key immobilizer module is of a mind to not allow the engine to be cranked over. This happens automatically after 6 failed attempts to start the vehicle without the proper key or the system not recognizing the proper key. I would wonder whether it may be the case that the vtss antenna or its wire connections has electrically 'opened' which I have learned from others can happen. I would look into that possibility by examining the antenna which is the loop of wire that surrounds the ignition switch at point where you insert the key. Then remove the upper and lower panels of the steering column (screws on the underside) to check the wire that connects the antenna to the skim module nearby.
Two other possibilities: check the + clamp at the battery where there is a light gauge red wire which powers part of the body control module. That wire's connection to the battery can become corroded and flakey.
Then check the hood ajar switch (mounted along the left edge of the compartment hood interface) to be sure that it isn't indicating the hood is open.
Finally, try re-securing the vehicle using the power locks or remote, then re-open it, then try the starter again.
Other than that, a fault code readout using a code reader is probably necessary to determine why this starter lock out condition is present. I will continue to look over the issue and revise my answer shortly if I find something. Please let me know what you learn.
Please read the PS below and respond to it.
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QUESTION: Hi Roland! Thanks for your response! I got it to clear itself! I noticed if I pulled the IOD fuse, or the ignition fuse that the dash lights would turn off, and when I would put them back in the security dot would turn on, off for a second, then on again. Idk why, but I thought maybe if I pulled both fuses , then put them back in at the same time it might work. It did on the first try. Possibly a coincidence, or maybe not. Also when the sexurity light was stuck on the oil preasure light was not on. As soon as the security light went off the oil pressure light came on. The original reason I was working on the van is because after sitting for two days or so the battery would be dead. With a voltmeter, and a test light I found the the bcm #1 had a 7 amp power draw on it with the key off, and all doors closed. I'm guessing a bad bcm? Anyway thanks for your help
ANSWER: Hi Dave,
Thanks for that report. The two fuses you pulled simultaneously were those next to each other in the front corner of the box, #'s 14 and 23?
I'm unclear what bcm#1 means. Is that pin 1 of main 6-pin plug that was carrying 7 amps?
That is powered out of fuse 20 (40 amp fuse) that I believe may power the headlamp circuit. There is a small diode for that fuse in the power box, if this is the bcm#1 of which you speak?
It might be that diode is bad?
Thanks for the rate/nominate of my answer.
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QUESTION: Hi Roland.
The two fuses that I got to clear the anti theft light were the IOD fuse (15 amp), and the IGN SW fuse(10 amp). The fuse box cover is not numbered, but he's the fuses are in the front corner close to the driver side fender. I probably pulled these two fuses out 30-40 times, before i tried installing them simultaneously. I didn't want to give up. The 40 amp fuse I pulled that had the huge power draw on it is labeled 40 amp BCM#1. There is another 40 amp fuse labeled BCM #2. When I was checking for a load I disconnected the negative battery terminal, pulled out every fuse and relay, and then connected my ammeter between the negative cable, and the battery. I then plugged in all the relays, and showedno load yet, then installed the fuses 1 at a time . The key, and everything else was off, and all the doors were closed. A couple of the the fuses as I plugged them in had small loads on them, but when I put the 40 amp BCM#1 fuse it it jumped up a whole 7 amps. After I found that, and checked every other fuse I out everything back together, and this is when the anti theft light was on, and it wouldn't crank. Let me know if this answered your questions.
That is how I 'read' what you reported. It is hard to know which circuits BCM #1 and 2 are responsible for because the wiring diagrams don't reveal that. But it only has 4 fuses: 14 is the iod, 24 is for the hazard lighting, and everything else that bcm does is done by those 2 40 amp fuses. Simultaneously installing the ignition and iod is an useful discovery to share with others. It would be interesting to check all the output circuit of the bcm to see which one(s) are taking those 7 amps. I wouldn't be so sure it is the bcm itself that is bad. What have you planned to do about the battery draw-down that you experienced?
It would be interesting to put measure the draw on fuse BCM 1 again, then remove the bem plugs #2,3,4,5 one at a time and at least that way to localize which circuits are on the plug that seems to be getting those 7 amps. BCM plug #1 is the input for fuses bcm 1,bcm 2 and hazard fuse.
Thanks again and if you would like to do another 'rate' and 'nominate' of me that would be much appreciated. I am in a close race with an expert in the field of 'grammar and writing'.