You are here:

Chrysler Repair/Anti-Theft won't disarm: '06 Chrysler 300


QUESTION: This problem is for a 2006 Chrysler 300 Touring

Background info: My key shaft does not work, it just spins when I turn the key and my key remote has stopped working so I have been keeping my car unlocked until I get these issues fixed. My friend accidently locked the car so I called AAA and they were able to get into the door and unlock the driver's side door using the air pump wedge.

Problem:  I tried starting my car and it sounded like it started and then just cut off.  A red circular light would flash on which I have read is the Anti-Theft light.  I tried again a few more times and then after the 4th or 5th time, I was no longer able to get the engine to turn at all.. the light just flashes and nothing happens.  The AAA rep said there's a chance he messed something up with the anti-theft system.

I tried leaving the key in the on position for about 10 minutes which didn't work.  I'm having it towed home until I can take it to a dealership, but I'm trying to find out if there is any type of "quick fix" that I may be able to do from home.  Is there something inside the door that may have broken? Or is it just a matter of some type of reset?  Any help is greatly appreciated!

ANSWER: Hi Shaina,
Does the passenger side door lock also not work? It too will disarm the anti-theft system so try the key in that door lock. Also, does the remote perhaps just need a new battery? That would be another way to disarm the system. Other than those two, it is possible to fake out the system but it involves going under the dash and jumping a specific electrical part (resistor) that simulates what the door lock does. Let me know if any of the above suggestions might work for you.
Please read the PS below and respond to it.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Unfortunately there is no key shaft in the passenger side door (very dumb idea on Chrysler's part!).  The only way to get into the car using the key is the driver's side door.  The remote has a 2 month old battery so it shouldn't be dead but I will try buying a new one.
If I can get the remote to work, what steps should I take to disarm the anti-theft system?
I did a little research and someone said to pull the Wireless Control Module fuse (#14 in the rear fuse box), or the ignition off draw fuse (#19 in the junction box behind the dash).  Another said to disconnect the battery.  I won't have access to the tools to do this until I get home, but do you think any of those would work based on the symptoms I'm having?  Thank you! And I will be sure to make sure I click the button to thank and rate you on this forum.

ANSWER: Revised answer:
There is another approach which is what will probably be done at the dealer, and that is to use a plug-in fault code reader to find out a specific fault code number which the built-in self-diagnostic capability has identified as the cause of the failure to disarm the system. There is plug located under the dash on the left side near the steering column where the reader plugs in. You may have a friend with a code reader or you can consider buying a reader which has the capability to access the body control module which is part of the system where the codes are stored, or an independent shop will usually do a code readout for $40 or so. Get the fault code number (4-digits preceded by a B), and ask what it means. Let me know and I can also look it up in my manual and we can compare notes and see what needs to be done. It may be related to that 'spinning' door key cylinder in which case you will probably need a part from a dealer or at least get into the door. I should be able to tell you how to do that yourself.
I didn't realize that there is no lock on the passenger door.
The system is described on 14 pages in the '06 manual which I have skimmed but so far found no specific explanation as to why your system stopped working. I can copy those pages and attach them to an email so you can read them and see whether you find something helpful. Let me know your email but don't use the @ symbol as the program will delete the address if you do. Instead use "at". I can do the copying tomorrow morning.
It appears to me that the door lock may not be involved in the system at all. Instead the remote key entry and the sentry key system (the bulge in the key head which interacts with ignition switch proper) are the means of interacting/disarming. The only fuses involved are #14 and #29 in the power distribution center in the trunk. So verify that those are both working, ideally visually/with a voltmeter or glow light, without removing them. Check the battery in the RKE. If you can get the RKE to work, that would appear to be the way to get the system disarmed. I would not disconnect the battery when the system is armed as that can add another wrinkle which may only be resolved at the dealership. I hope this might be of help.
Thanks for the rating and nomination which you are entitled to do again with each answer if you would care to do so.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Update:   This morning I went and got a new battery for the key remote (even though I thought for sure it couldn't be dead already)- I pressed the unlock button a few times and then tried to turn the car on and it worked! Thanks to you I didn't try to disconnect the battery, which I probably would have done had you not advised against it.  Thanks again for everything!

I am so pleased to learn of your success, Shaina. I was wondering how things were going.
As I read through the manual it wasn't clear to me how the key cylinder in the driver door is supposed to work. It speaks of rotating the key once to open the driver door and twice to open all door. It almost sounded like it is supposed to go around 360 degrees (as compared to the good old days when you rotated the key 90 one way to lock and 90 the other way to unlock).
But you have it fixed for now.
If you are concerned about the anti-theft part that prevents the engine from running more than a second or so, you may be able to prevent the arming of the anti-theft entirely by only utilizing the mechanical lock buttons (not rke or the power door locks) when you exit the car. Observe the red light in the dash to see if that is the case. I assume there are mechanical lock buttons?
Thanks for your rating and nominations.

Chrysler Repair

All Answers

Answers by Expert:

Ask Experts


Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

I answer questions seven days a week and respond to you in about 30 minutes. "Maxed Out" means I am answering another question, briefly unavailable, or asleep overnight, so try again later.

I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2011 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.


Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

Awards and Honors
"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

©2016 All rights reserved.