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Chrysler Repair/Chrysler 2002 Sebring no. 8 fuse blows

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QUESTION: I had the same problem if that previous guys post and I did exactly what you suggested. Removed both relays, then replace individually. However when I replaced the relays individually my no. 8 fuse didn't blow this time. Now what ?

ANSWER: Hi Kelly,
I am not sure what is your problem then. Are you saying that the fuse won't blow with either the starter motor relay or the fuel pump relay installed individually?
And did you try to start the engine when the starter relay was in? and did the starter motor work?
And did you try starting it again with BOTH relays installed and did the fuse blow or not?
I need more specific information about the problem in order to help you.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Initally, I saw fuse no 8 was blown and took out the radio fuse (20amp) and placed it is the fuse no 8 position. Started the vehicle and even did a good test drive. Stopped the vehicle and after work, restarted it with a little hesitation and the lights to the thermometer on the dash flickered. I thought something was funny so I restarted for a second time and I was a smoother start and I drove the vehicle home safely. All good. Got home parked and next time I went to start the vehicle it immediately blew the fuse no 8. I read your posting and followed it by removing the 2 relays and individually replacing the first relay and starting the veicle and fuse didn't blow. Then did the same with the middle relay, started the vehicle and and the fuse didn't blow. Then replaced both relays and started the vehicle and fuse no 8 blew again. So then, I thought to jack the vehicle up to check wiring around the starter but saw the complication that this vehicle is to work on so currently it's jacked up and I'm at a loss of what to check next or do. It may or may not be beneficial to say that I recently had 2 new headlight assemblies put and to my surprise about 2 months after having those installed a the driver side headlight blew out. Then a week later the passenger side headlight blew out. And then a week later fuse no 8 keeps blowing out when the key is turned to start the vehicle. Can you advise me ?

ANSWER: Hi Kelly,
That is good history to know. That fuse powers many different devices, both the fuel pump and the starter solenoid switch, and then two separate circuits controlled by the ignition switch which power a total of 4 fused circuits and the body control module. So there are plenty of possibilities for the source of the problem which is clearly excessive current draw from that combination. So we have to sort it out.
Does the fuse blow as soon as you turn the key to the 'run' position or does it only blow when you then turn the key past 'run' and move it to the 'start' position?
The headlights blowing out does also suggest that there may be an issue with voltage regulation such that the voltage output of the alternator may be excessive and is causing the headlights to be too bright which causes them to blow. Have you noticed anything along that line before the fuse began to blow?
Do you have a volt-ohm-ammeter to do some measurements?
Let me know the answers to those questions, please.
Please 'rate' my answer (see PS below).
Thanks,
Roland

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QUESTION: The fuse only blows when in start position. I do not have an amp reader. Could I replace the 20 with a 30 fuse to get it started ? And when to get it started and when it blows again would it be more apparent where the damage is ?

Answer
Hi Kelly,
Without an ammeter to analyze the current flow through each of the 7 circuits that draw on that fuse there is no way to be sure what is causing it to blow. All we know is that the circuits combined exceed 20 amps. The only concern with using a 30 is that the wires that go to and from that fuse are not as large as those for a 30 amp circuit. But if the fuse only blows when you try the starter then it would presumably not overload the wire for the short duration that you request the starter. If a 30 amp blows however I would not try a 40 as that would risk burning out the wire and possibly a fire. Until you can measure the flow of current in the 'run' position and then in the 'start' position there is no way to sort out where the problem resides.
I would appreciate a 'rate' of my answer (see PS below).
Thanks,
Roland

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Roland Finston

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Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

I answer questions seven days a week and respond to you in about 30 minutes. "Maxed Out" means I am answering another question, briefly unavailable, or asleep overnight, so try again later.

I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.

Experience

Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

Organizations
Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Education/Credentials
Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

Awards and Honors
"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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