Chrysler Repair/2000 Sebring JXi 2.5 L Crankshaft Gear Removal
QUESTION: How am I supposed to remove the crankshaft gear/sprocket? Thankfully, it did not stick to the damper pulley like I saw in other posts. The gear does not slide off. Is it supposed to slide off? The damper slid off easily. There is no way to get a puller behind the gear and no holes for that type of puller. Today I replaced both camshaft seals, which were leaking. A pain to get the old seals out, but pulling the valve covers did the trick. While I am in the engine I thought I'd replace the crankshft seal as well, although I'm not sure it is leaking. If the crankshaft gear is so difficut to remove and then I cannot get the old seal out, maybe I am better off leaving it alone.
ANSWER: Hi Bob,
The Haynes manual speaks of using a gear puller to remove the crankshaft sprocket but doesn't show the type of puller to use. Then you remove the woodruff key which remains. Then you can remove the seal but you have to be careful not to scratch the cranshaft surface and oil pump surface when doing that removal, and you have to install the new seal evenly, ideally with a proper size seal installer.
But I am a great supporter of 'if it ain't broke don't break it'. Absent any sign of leakage I would leave well enough alone.
Sorry for the delay in responding but I just found your quesition in the 'pool' to which it had been referred by Kevin.
Please 'rate' my answer (see the PS below).
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QUESTION: Thanks. The Haynes manual does say to use a gear puller, but as figure 7.27 shows, there are no holes in the sprocket for the type of puller I used on my 1997 LHS 3.5 L, and figure 8.2 shows only one depression in the oil pump housing at the top behind the sprocket, the back of which is about 1/16 inch from the pump housing the rest of the way around, so a two- or three-arm puller won't work either. I also have the 2000 Sebring Convertible Chrysler Service Manual but it says only, "(3) Remove the crankshaft sprocket and key." That's why I wondered if the sprocket slides on rather than being pressed on, and maye it was just stuck with corrosion. I have PB-Blasted it but I think I'm going with "If it ain't broke ..."
Inaterstingly, I looked in the Mitsubishi-derived Sebring/Avenger manual which uses the same 2.5L engine and found a reference and drawing for two Miller Tools #MB998754 and 990767 for removing that pulley. I don't want to dissuage you from leaving well enoungh alone, but you could check into how much that tool costs and at least you know about it for the future.
Thanks for the rating and nomination. If you would be so kind as to do it again (which Allexperts allows and encourages) I would be most appreciative. This month's competition ends in 3 hours!