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Chrysler Repair/'98 Sebring 2.5L V-6: No Spark


      I did look for other similar conditions in the find box. I did find some similar instances, but nothing definitive. Here is the entire situation as it occurred:

My daughter drove the car, she said it overheated, so she parked it and rode with a friend. I went over and put my OBD II scanner on it. There was a misfire code for cylinder 1, I cleared it. I checked/topped off oil and all other fluids.

I drove the car home with no problems (10 minute drive). The following morning I started the car, drove it to the tire shop (20 minute drive), and when I got there it was steaming a little bit acting like it was going to overheat. The temp gauge on the dashboard was showing normal.

Tires replaced, drove car back home (20 minute drive), as I was pulling into the driveway, the car died and would not restart. I tried cranking it over and I could tell by the sound that it was just cranking, not even close to firing over.

Put my OBD II scanner on it and got P0340, No Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Failure. Cleared the code, did some research that pointed me to the distributor, replaced the distributor, still no spark.

Continued researching and came across the crankshaft position sensor. Replaced it, still no spark.

Continued researching and found out about the ASD relay and the fuel pump relay. When I turn the key on but not crank the engine, the check engine light comes on and then goes off and I think I hear the fuel pump turn on and back off.

I do have a lot of tools and some decent mechanical ability, so any help you could offer me would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You,

ANSWER: Hi John,
Please let me know if there are any fresh codes. Also, did you replace the rotor? Did you check fuse 5 in the power distribution center in the engine compartment? Finally, how are you checking for spark?
Thanks for the history and answers to the above questions. I think we should be able to solve this.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

     There are no fresh codes. I replaced the rotor, cap, and distributor since I was in there. I did not check fuse 5 specifically, but I will tonight when I get home from work. I am checking for spark via pulling a spark plug wire off of a spark plug and inserting a screwdriver and grounding the screwdriver.

Thanks for that additional info. That fuse #5 (20 amp) is what provides the current to the ASD and from there to the spark coil in the distributor and to the heated oxygen sensor (but not to the fuel pump relay etc. that are controlled directly by the pcm) so thus you could have the fuel pump sound for a second or so but have no power to the primary of the ignition coil if for example the heated oxygen sensor was shorted out and taking 'out' that fuse #5. Let me know what you find please. Also, if you would be so kind as to "rate" and consider giving me "nomination" for "volunteer of the month" at Allexperts I would appreciate that.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

         Fuse #5 is fine.

         Im checking for spark by removing a spark plug wire, inserting a screwdriver, placing the screwdriver near a bolt on the air intake manifold, and have someone crank the engine while I look for spark.

         You want me to rate you on every answer or provide a final rating once we get the issue resolved?

Thanks Mike

Hi Mike,
And I assume that you found there to be 12V on fuse 1 in the same box while the engine was being cranked over, correct? That would prove you have the 12V for the coil primary but you can also check for it at the dark green/orange wire on pin 1 of the 2-pin plug at the distributor. If so, then you would want to check the spark coil primary resistance which should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms (measure between pin 1 of the 2-pin socket and pin 6 of the 6-pin socket) and  measure the secondary to be 12,500 to 18,000 ohms. Also it would be good to verify that the crank sensor is working, and that you would do by probing through the insulation of its leads at the pcm with fine pins inserted, between pin 43 (black/light blue) and pin 32 (gray/black). You would have the ignition 'on', but turn the engine by hand using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft pulley bolt. The voltage reading between 32 and 43 should oscillate between 5 and 0.3V as you rotate the crank, about 12 times per revolution. That pulsing is what generates the primary driver for the spark coil so if that were absent there would be no spark. Thus you would verify that you should have a spark driver and a working spark coil by doing these measurements. Let me know what you discover.
On the rating/nomination issue, the Allexperts management allows each questioner to offer up to 5 rating/nominations of an expert and I am always glad to receive these. But it is your choice based upon how you evaluate my answers. You can go back to the earlier answers too and rate/nominate them as well.  

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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