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Chrysler Repair/1998 Chrysler Sebring conv 2.5 liter eng


After about a year of replacing parts for a service engine light due to a p0300 code I finally determined that the first part that I replaced the crank sensor was causing the problem. It lost its magnetism. It was under life time warranty so they gave me a new one for free. This cleared the codes I ran it for a week had the emissions done and it passed. I then gave it to my son to drive to work and all of a sudden its starts ok but after it warms up it shuts off out of the blue.  It will start up ok after cutting out.  I replaced every emission part on this car distributor wires plugs Oxy sensors MAP sensor throttle position EGR valve temperature sensors checked all of the injectors. Is it possible that the new cam sensor is bad? by the way it is not throwing a code. The car runs perfect when its running. The last thing i done to it was change the oil pressure switch which was leaking oil and and filter using 10 W30 Synthetic oil.

Hi Rich,
How long after it 'cuts out' will it then restart and run normally? If there is a time delay necessary (so as to allow a sensor to cool down) then that would indeed point toward either the cam or the crank sensor or possibly the coolant temp sensor is off-value. You could check the cam and crank sensors right after it shuts down by having pre-positioned some pins through the insulation of their signal and ground wires at the pcm. The common ground wire is on pin 43, the crank position sensor signal is on pin 32 while the cam position sensor is on pin 33. Put your voltmeter between the ground and one of the sensor signal wires, turn the ignition switch to run position, then turn the engine by hand using a socket and handle on the crank pulley bolt. if the sensor is good you should see the voltage oscillate between 5v and 0.3v several times per revolution of the crank. If not, then the sensor is bad at that moment. Let things cool down and check it again and if it then works, that sensor is going bad.
The coolant temp sensor should read around 1,000 ohms across its pins when the engine is warmed up fully; when cold it is around 4,000 ohm.
If there is no time delay, then I would look for a vacuum hose leak or an egr valve that is hanging up ajar which causes a stall when slowing down.
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Roland Finston


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