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Chrysler Repair/alarm won't disarm:'96/'97 minivan


QUESTION: Hi i just got a chrysler voyager (1997) my probs are no funktion on the remotes, the alarm set is flashing and the car won`t really starts(starts about 4 sec and then it gos off) i dont know what to do really can you help me out some way? and sorry for my bad englisch i`m from germany


ANSWER: Hi Sebastian,
I will base my response by noting that the 'year' of a vehicle sold outside the U.S. may not be identical to the 'year' of the service manual that applies to it. I am going to assume that the '96 service manual is what applies to your vehicle. Please let me know if what I describe/suggest does not appear to be consistent with what you find to be there.
To begin, verify that fuses #5 ((40 amp), 6 (40 amp)  and 10 (10 amp) in the fuse box in the engine compartment are good, and that fuses # 1, 2, 3, 4, and 7 in the fuse box under the dash are good before doing anything. Particularly check the fuse #10 is good and making good contact in its socket as that is what powers the remote keyless entry and an important part of the body computer module. Those are the fuses for the theft system as well as those fuses that are involved with the body computer's functions which is where the electronics of the anti-theft system are located. That computer is on the back side of the dash fuse box and is accessible from under the dash if necessary (let me know if you have to do that).
There are several possibilities for what to try:
First I would verify that neither door key lock will disarm the theft system. Both doors are connected to the body computer but the wire from the driver door may be disconnected or shorted to ground. So try to lock, then unlock, the passenger door using the door key. See if that has disarmed the system so it will then start and run. If so, then either the driver door lock switch or wire connecting it to the body computer (which has likely fatigued at the door hinge where is crosses over from the door to the body) can be repaired OR if you will be very careful to never use the door key, the power door locks, or a remote key fob to secure the vehicle in the future then you will never set the alarm again. The way to secure the vehicle if you take that approach is to only use the mechanical push button lock tabs on the inside of the doors when securing the vehicle and it will be just like the good old days before anti-theft systems.
Similarly, try to lock, then unlock the rear lift gate key lock which is also part of the system just like the door key locks. Ideally, one of these locks will turn off the alert set light and allow the engine to run normally.
For all those switches to work to disarm the system, the 'ground wire' of the switches must be attached to the body. Look on the right side of the cabin, where the side panel (cowl) connects to the floor panel, just above the flat floor and where the panel seam is curved where you should find a small box with about 12 black wires connected to it. Make sure that box is firmly bolted to the wall which established the 'ground' for those wires. Then try the lock/unlock action at each of the three key locks to see whether the alarm light will stop flashing.
If still the system won't disarm, then you will need to locate the disarming wire from any of those switches and apply 12v thru a resistor of 665 ohms to the wire which simulates what the key lock switch is supposed to do when it sends the 'disarm' message to the body computer. I can tell you where to find the wires if that is needed to be done.
Let me know what you find when you try the above suggestions.
Please 'rate/nominate' my answer/me (see the PS below).
Thank you,

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello again

so i checkt everything on fuses ,try`d to lock and open on the passenger side ,the ground box is tight on the body

the computer is on the backside of the dash fuse box  it will not work i did try everything you wrote
the alarm set still flashing and givs sound from it

whats the next step that i could do?

thank you,

ANSWER: Hi Sebastian,
The body computer plugs are the next place to go. There are two plugs with 40-pins each located on the bottom of the computer so they should be accessed fairly easily. They are 'natural' color plastic. The way to simulate the disarming signal is to use a 665 ohm resistor (or similar to that ohm reading) and touch one end of it to any one of three pin sockets/wires while the plug is connected to the computer and touch the other end of the resistor to a shiny metal surface nearby (ground). The specific pins are 44 (white/red), 45 (white/dark green), 55 (white/light green). Try them one at a time and I hope that one of those 'touches' will turn off the alarm. If that doesn't work then use either pin 10 or pin 22 on the other plug as the 'ground' point for the other end of the resistor. You should be able to touch each wire with the resister tip by inserting the resistor into the socket where the wire enters the connector. You have to do this resistor 'jump' with the plugs inserted in the computer just as it sits there.
Did the amp ratings of the resistors I listed for pins 5,6, and 10 of the power box in the engine compartment agree with what you found? In particular fuse #10 should be 10 amps. If so then that would verify that the '96 manual is correct for your '97. All the fuses I listed should be good as well.
What I have listed to do is exactly what the 3 door key locks do when you move it to the 'unlock' position. I hope this will produce the disarm.
Lastly, if this doesn't work, can you ask the former owner whether this failure to disarm happened to him and if so what he did?
If you would be so kind as to click on 'rate/nominate' the expert again and this time click on 'yes' to nominate me as 'volunteer of the month' I would be most appreciative.
PS Your English is much better than my Scientific German, which I studied about 50 years ago!
PPS Was there any history that happened just before this problem occurred? It may be the case that the digital communication between the body computer and the engine computer has been lost. Were any modules changed out with new/used ones? If the resistor jump doesn't work then the only other solution is to involve a Chrysler dealer who would have a Diagnostic Readout Box and the instruction manual for the Body Computer on a '96 model minivan. There are a number of tests that can be done but they require the use of a Diagnostic Readout Box.
PPPS If the plugs on the bcm are not accessible enough you could reach the wires that go to pins 45 and 55 at the door hinge area on the left and/or right side where there is a 14-pin disconnect which carries them to the body computer. You would want to jump at the side of the connector that is on the body side.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi again ,i need now to wait for the resistor :( .but the former owner placed the car on the parkinglot ,it was standing about 3 month now there ,and finaly the battery was empty so he hook`d ist up on another car to get the voltage.and then the alarm set was flashing
there are no new moduls or else

thanks again


Hi Sebastian,
That 'history' may be relevant because disconnecting or allowing the battery voltage to drop too low may well be what started this problem because the anti-theft system may have interpreted the low voltage as an attempt to steal the vehicle by disconnecting/re-connecting the battery.
It could be that the present battery voltage is still too low to properly send a disarm signal. What is the voltage showing across the battery and have you tried a battery charger on it to get the voltage up to 12.6V or more? Try disconnecting the battery, then do a jump of a known good battery to the battery cables in the vehicle.  Once you have that level of voltage and with everything turned off then try the key lock lock/unlock routine once again, on all three doors if necessary.
PS Please do a 'nomination' of me if I have been helpful to you.

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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