Chrysler Repair/'98 Sebring 2.5 V-6L: no start
For whatever reason, the follow up option is not available anymore.
When I checked the voltage at fuse#1 while cranking the engine, I got 0v (no voltage). I did not move on to any other checks as this was the first one on the list. Please dirent me on where to go from here. I think we are close.
I did nominate you and rate you and I will do so 4 more times once we get this issue resolved.
ANSWER: Hi Mike,
The 12V output of the ASD relay is the dark green/orange wire that splits and goes to the pin 1 of the 2-pin plug of the distributor and to fuse 1. That relay should be closed by the pcm getting the 'word' that the engine is being cranked over as reported to it by the crank sensor.
The pcm does that by grounding the dark blue/violet wire on pin #93 of the relay which is the actuation winding of the relay, which is the rear most pin of the ASD relay socket. Because you verified fuse 5 to be good there should be 12v on pin 91 of the relay socket at all times (that is the frontmost pin of the relay socket). So if those voltages check out it means that the pcm is either not grounding pin 93, the actuation coil, or the ASD relay coil is bad, the points inside the relay coil are bad, or the pcm is not getting the word to close the points from the crank sensor. So those are the things to check out to correct the lack of output from the ASD on the dark green/orange wire and once you solve that you will get spark. Try trading out the ASD relay with one of the fan relays as a way to verify the relay is not the issue. Then check the cranks sensor for pulsations as I described.
Another approach would be to simply temporarily by-pass the ASD relay by removing it and jumping a wire across the socket sideways (which is basically what the relay does when it closes). That would be from pin 97 to pin 89. Then try to start the engine. If it doesn't then I suspect the crank sensor isn't pulsing, so there is no signal to 'drive' the spark coil primary winding. If it does start, then presumably the ASD relay is bad, and the fan relay should also make it start correctly after you remove the jumper wire. Don't leave the jumper wire indefinitely as the current to the oxygen senor thru fuse 1 will drain the battery, and of course you don't want to drive around that way in case of an accident.
Thanks for the rating and nomination, and let me know what you learn.
PS When you installed the new crank sensor I assume that it had the paper spacer on it tip and that you pushed it in until you felt that tip touched the surface of the flex plate and then you secured it in that position. If not, then that may be why you would have no output from the sensor.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
OK, I found the ASD. I do have 12v on pin 91. I tried the jumper and no start, I tried moving one of the fan relays, no start. So at this point it is leading us back to the crankshaft position sensor. THere was a paper gasket on it when I put it in.Ill remove it to see what I can find. The only thing I can think of is I did not get it all the way back in touching the flex plate.
Im just thinking out loud here, what are the symptoms of a broken timing belt/chain? Would the symptoms be the same as what I am experiencing?
The quickest check for the timing belt break would be to notice whether the rotor in the distributor turns or not when you crank via the starter. Or you can pull a plug and simply feel for compression pressure, and it may be possible to see the valve train through the oil filler cap. Otherwise, if the belt is good, check the position of the crank sensor or check the voltage pulsations when turning the crank by hand as I described earlier.
Thanks for you rating/nomination and any more you would like to offer.