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Chrysler Repair/'98 Sebring 2.5l v-6: no start/no spark


         Upon further inspection of the distributor and the 6 pin connector, it was found to be disconnected. I connected the connector and erased the codes and tried to restart the car. All it would do is turn over and not start. I checked for codes afterwards and received no codes. I thin the connector fixed the P0340 code I was getting.

         Where do we go from here?

         Also, i rated your response and will rate/nominate the others as well.


ANSWER: Hi Mike,
I would check for spark and also listen for the fuel pump to run when you move the key to the 'run' position, for about a second and then stop. Let me know what those test reveal. Thanks for the rating and nomination.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

         I do not have spark. It does sound like the fuel pump is coming on, but its really hard to tell. I did pull a plug out and ground it to the manifold as well as any other metal areas I could find and never got any spark. I think we are really close. Hopefully diagnosing spark is relatively quick and easy.



ANSWER: Hi Mike,
Check to see if fuse 5 in the power distribution center under the hood is conducting, then check to see if you show 12V on pin 1 of the 2-pin plug at the distributor when you are cranking it over (dark green/orange wire). Maybe if the 6-pin plug was not connected you will find that the 2-pin plug at the distributor also was not connected!
That 12V would power the primary winding of the spark coil and then if both the cam and crank sensors are working properly (no codes for either are shown, I understand) then the spark plugs should be getting spark. Let me know what you find.
PS Thanks for those nominations, and feel free to do it again for this answer.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

         I do have continuity on fuse number 5 and I do have ~12vdc on pin 1 of the two pin connector while cranking the engine. Its actually a little bit lower like 11.5vdc. So far there are no codes being shown.

Lets get this figured out....



Hi Mike,
The things to check out for "no spark" (besides 12V at the dark green/orange while cranking) would be:
The rotor: is it patent between the rotor button and the tip
The distributor cap: is it cracked.
The distributor wires: are they in the correct order (note displacements)
The distributor coils: primary 0.6 to 0.8 ohms, secondary 12,500 t0 18,000 ohms
Are the cam and crank sensors putting out signals: specifically check the voltage between the signal and signal ground wires while turning the engine over by hand using the nut on the crank pulley and the ignition key in the run position. The voltage should vary between 5 and 0.3V several times per revolution of the crankshaft. The common signal ground wire is black/light blue, the cam signal is tan/yellow, the crank signal wire is gray/black.
I believe that you would find one of the above to be the source of the no spark. You said that you did ground the threads of the spark plug you were using to test for spark, correct?
What I don't understand is that on Sept 2 you said that you did get spark after you switched out the ASD relay for the fan relay. Now you do have ASD relay action, so what happened to lose the spark in the meantime?
I would appreciate your giving me another 'nomination' for this answer, and thanks for the previous nominations.

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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