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Chrysler Repair/'96 Neon idles rough gradually comes to a die


QUESTION: hi, i checked for codes  on my 1996 neon 2ltr automatic and i came up with code 37( torque convertor clutch circuit) the thing is that after i changed my fuel pump the car now starts but will adle for about 10mins and gradually change to a rough idlling eventually sputter, surge , and die. My check engine light is off which i assume the code 37 is either a loose electrical condition or the problem has not yet build up to be a serious problem. NONE THE LESS do you think this code might be the cause for the pump to shut down and how can i rectify the problem and

ANSWER: Hi Tony,
The torque converter clutch circuit would have nothing to do with the rough idling, surge and die of the engine. I would wonder whether you have a different fault code, so try it again and let me know. What caused you to change the fuel pump? Was it the same behavior, and why did you change out the fuel pump.
Without an engine-related fault code it is difficult to make suggestions about what to do, other than don't try changing parts in hope that you will find the reason. So let me know if you find any other fault codes. Count the flashes/pausing in between flashes very carefully. Are you also getting a 55 code as the last one?
PS:Sorry for the delay but I just found your question in the 'pool' to which Kevin had referred it.

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QUESTION: Hi unfortunately there are no other codes and this baffles me also.  The only thing i have noticed is that the pump does not come on on the first turn of the ignition. i have to turn the key on for the second time for the pump to activate and the bzzz sound of the pump to be heard.
- once the car turns off you can immediately start it back up again but it wont last
-the relays are ok
-egr is ok i think
- pressure seems to decrease as the engine is running causing loss of power and immobility. eventually die

i dont know if this may help in figuring out what could be the missing link causing the car to perform this way. Mechanics this side have limited knowledge on chrysler and cant figure out whats happening. one of them suggested buying another pump and i dont want to until we are 100% sure cause they are expensive.

Hi Tony,
You didn't tell me if your check engine light was indeed giving you a 55 which would show that the readout is being done.
On the fuel pump issue start by switching its relay with the radiator fan relay if those have the same part number, or with the horn relay.
If that doesn't fix it, then try to temporarily hard wire the fuel pump by removing its relay and jumping a wire from pin 72 of its socket to pin 52 and that will turn on the fuel pump. Then see how it runs. But don't leave it that way for safety reasons along with running down the battery. Just see if it runs reliably. 72 would be the one that has 12v on it all the time because it is connected to the battery and 52 would be the socket directly across the relay from pin 72.
On the egr try lubricating the stem of that valve where it enters the valve body and then move the stem back and forth with the tip of a screwdriver inserted into the slot of the stem. Lube with WD-40 or similar spray lubricant.
I hope one of these will reveal if the problem is the relay, the relay actuation circuit, or the egr.

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Roland Finston


Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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