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Chrysler Repair/Mode Door Actuator failure for a 2000 Chrysler 300M


QUESTION: Problem:
The climate control switches do not direct the air appropriately.

The DTC displays 24 & 33. Both identifying a mode door actuator problem.

Action taken so far:
This is my second mode door actuator that Iíve replaced.  The first mode door actuator worked for two or three days before it went back.  I can rotate the door key by hand.  There is a little resistance but not a lot; however, if I rotate it too far in the one direction it takes a little bit of pressure to get it free.  When the first mode door actuator would reset it seemed to get hung up at that specific location.  I used white lithium grease to make the door rotate easier.  When I removed the second actuator, the shaft was stuck in the door key.  I had to carefully wiggle it out but I did not see any damage to the key.

The second mode door actuator:
Iím installing another mode door actuator.  Before installing it, I tested it to make sure the climate control switches would move the actuator.  There were no issues.  Even during the diagnostic testing (actuator is not installed) the actuator would move to the various positions.  Then I checked the door by rotating the key by hand.  Again, there were no issues.  I installed the actuator and adjusted the climate control switches but the actuator did not respond.  Iíve removed the actuator and Iíve adjusted the climate control switches like it did before I installed the actuator but the actuator is not responding.  When I conduct another diagnostic test (actuator is not installed) the actuator will move to the reset position but then stays in that location during the test.  It does not move to the different settings.  

Is my new actuator bad or could the problem be in the climate control switch or the body control module (BCM)?  How can I test the climate control switch or BCM? There is a little resistance when I move the door key, what should I use to grease the door and where should I place the grease?  Did I make it worse by using white lithium grease on the door key? The two replacement actuators where made by Dorman.  Should I look for a different brand?  Iím thinking of going to ďPick UR PartsĒ and take an actuator from another Chrysler but I hate to get a used part when this part seems to be a recurring problem with the 99-04 Chryslers.

ANSWER: Hi Lynn,
I notice that the 24 code is about a position of the door feedback failure, which implies possibly that the circuit between the actuator and the body control module is 'open' or 'shorted'. The feedback signal wire is yellow/white and runs from pin 3 of the actuator to pin 9 of the black 24-pin plug at the bcm. So begin by checking that for continuity and see whether it might be shorted to ground or shorted to the 5 volt supply wire (pink/dark blue) on pin 4 of the actuator.
Also check that the sensor ground dark blue/gray wire on pin 2 is connected to pin 8 of the gray 14-wire pin at the bcm.
The 33 code does relate to a 'stall' which seems appropriate given the bind up, but not the 24.
If the door isn't binding up when you check it by hand, then probably that is alright.
Please read the PS below and respond to it.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the response, Roland.  I have a feeling that the problem is something in the bcm.  To check the continuity, do I need to pull the junction box and bcm out?  There is not a lot of room for me to see the wire on the bcm.  If I do have to pull the junction box, is there only two screws holding the box to the frame (one screw on top and one screw on the bottom)?  As tight as the wires look, I don't think removing the junction box is going to help.  Do you have any advice on getting to the bcm?  Thanks.

ANSWER: Hi Lynn,
To remove the junction block/bcm (but you may be able to simply pull the 2 bcm plugs):
disconnect the battery at the negative cable connection at the remote post
remove left end cap of dash
remove the lower instrument panel cover (2 screws/clips) and  remote deck lid release wiring)
remove the plugs from the junction block and bcm. You could check the continuity of the wires to the plugs I described at this point, so maybe don't go beyond this point.
There are 3 screws (manual doesn't say where) that hold them in place as a unit if you do want to do that. Pull it straight down. Then remove remote keyless entry antenna wire, and bcm wire connectors.
Before that, do check that the feedback signal wire is not shorted to 5v or ground at the actuator plug. Then check out wires continuity to the bcm plugs.
Sorry for the delay.
Please read the PS below and respond.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello Roland,

I had good continuity of yellow/white (pin 3 & pin 9); however, I could not find the gray 14-pin connector.  I only have a black (24-pin), white (12-pin), and a blue (16-pin) connected to the back of the bcm.  I did have continuity between the dark blue/gray (pin 2) and a brown wire on each of three plugs to the bcm.  There is a gray plug behind the junction box that has a gray/black wire.  I was not able to get continuity between the dark blue/gray and the gray/black wire but there were other wires in that plug that I was able to get good continuity.  As for the supply wire, there was power to it and there was good continuity between the pin 4 and the pink/dark blue on the 24-pin (I'm not sure what pin # that is).  

The door does not seam to bind up when I check it by hand but when I move the key in the counter-clockwise direction, there is a spot that requires a little more pressure.  It feels like it is going over a little bump.  I've used white lithium grease but it has not gotten any easier.  

Do you have any suggestion for me to check next?  Thanks.


Hi Lynn,
I am not sure that you found the 14-pin gray plug for the bcm. It is shown as being to the rear of the black bcm plug on the side of the bcm that is close to the kick panel. As that dark blue/gray wire is the sensor ground it would be good to verify its continuity.
I only see one brown wire, on the black plug and it has nothing to do with the mode door. I don't see any other pure brown wires. As to the gray plug and its gray/black wire, might that be dark blue/gray?
That 'bump' in the door action could be the problem, but how to deal with it without removing the entire unit is a big question. Might you be able to survive with the mode door set in one position by hand (and dispense with the actuator)? It may be the only 'simple' solution.
Please consider doing a 'rate/nominate' me for these answers.

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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