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Chrysler Repair/Chrysler Concorde Shuts Off While I Drive


I have a 1996 Chrysler Concorde CXL with the 3.3L engine. as I ride in different conditions (summer, fall and winter) my car will randomly cut itself off. it was very rare and has been more frequent but only in spells. every week is different this week it has cut itself off 3 times 3 different days but for the last 3 weeks there was no problems. when it first happened we replaced my fuel filter and popped the gas cap as recommended by our neighborly mechanic but that only seemed to help and not solve the issue, instead of waiting the typical 15 minutes it would take to re-start my car I could start my car up in only a few minutes. then as weather cooled off a bit the problem ceased for a couple weeks until my next unexplained shutoff. every time I have checked the mil codes and referenced them in the Chilton book for the vehicle and over the course of this problem I have seen some codes that seem like I should just throw in the towel but they seem to come and go and change when this problem happens. I have seen numbers come up that have told me a few of the injectors aren't working, ECT voltage too high or low, EGR sensor, etc. and I always seem to have 12 no matter when I check it for the past 5 years but yesterday It read out 11,12,22 and today it reads the same. I read one of your other posts that touched on 11 having to do with ignition coils? but the guy hadn't provided you with enough information. however my problem seems to only happen once a day it has happened twice in a day before but that is extremely rare. it shuts off whether its up at average running temp or about halfway there. and when it starts it has begun to rev itself up to about 2000 rpm and then bog down really low about 500 rpm usually runs at about 900 to 1000. I hope all this helps as I am lost I don't have the experience or knowledge to figure this one out. I would greatly appreciate it if you could help me figure out what I need to do to have this car back in safe working order.

Hi Nathan,
The 11 code speaks to the crankshaft position sensor signal not being present which would shut down the engine whenever that occurs, so that would be the first thing to change out. It is located at the rear of the engine, on the passenger side at the seam between the engine and the transmission housing, and is held in place by a single screw. You might find it easier to replace by going in from underneath after first removing the right front wheel.
The 12 code says the battery power to the engine controller was interrupted recently, and that too would shut down the engine unless you actually disconnected the battery recently. It may be that the cable clamps at the battery are not connected tightly.
The 22 code speaks about the intake air temp sensor, but according to my manual the 3.3L doesn't use that sensor so that may be a 'false'code. Only the flexible fuel version of the 3.3L uses that sensor.
I would also suggest that you squirt some WD-40 on the stem of the egr valve where it enters the valve body and then move the stem back and forth with the tip of a screwdriver inserted in the slot of the stem. If that stem were gummed up the valve might not close tightly when you decelerate which then starves the engine for fuel and it dies.
So there are several things to try to eliminate this problem.
Please read the PS (below) and respond to it.
Thanks for doing that,

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

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