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Chrysler Repair/Stalling after engine warms up: '00 LHS


QUESTION: Hi Roland! Hope you can shed some light, or at least point me in the right direction. I have a 2000 Chrysler LHS that just started with this problem. When the motor gets warm, and when I say warm, I mean normal operating temp. Not over heating at all. The car 1) loses power, and emits a noise similar to that of a bearing knock. 2) The motor shuts off completely!
If I let it sit for 20 mins. or so, till it cools down a bit. It does start, and I go thru the same process again.
PLEASE help me out!! car only has 110,000 miles

ANSWER: Hi Bryan,
The best approach is to get a fault code from the engine control module. Try turning the key:
on-off-on-off-on and leave on, doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window of the instrument cluster to see the mileage reading replaced by a 4-digit number preceded by a P. Tell me number(s) and we'll go from there.
Please read the PS (below) and respond to it.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hey Roland. Here are the codes.
Can you tell me what that means??

Hi Bryan,
The 1684 means that sometime in the past 50 or so starts that the battery was disconnected from the circuit the goes to the powertrain control module. Unless this has not be done purposely to your knowledge I would check the battery cable connections at the battery and also there is a negative post remote connection at the right side strut tower so check that too.
The 0703 speaks to an issue related to the circuit that is used with the cruise control  that senses when you have stepped on the brake. That is perhaps true if you notice a malfunction in the cruise control function but it would not explain the stalling out unless it happens in association with your use of the cruise control.
So we are left with no fault codes that would appear to apply to the situation. The only engine-related item that I am aware of which can cause a temporary stalling and difficulty restarting is when the exhaust gas recirculation valve get gummed up and fails to automatically close tightly when either you accelerate or alternatively decelerate to stop. When that happens the mixture gets too lean to support either idling or accelerating. So you might try spraying some WD-40 at the base of the egr valve stem to try and free up the action of this spring-loaded valve. or alternatively to remove it and try spraying the WD-40 internally into the pipe opening of the valve proper.
That is my best suggestion to you, except to keep checking for another code.
Thanks for doing the rating/nomination. Feel free to do both again if I have been helpful.

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Roland Finston


Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

I answer questions seven days a week and respond to you in about 30 minutes. "Maxed Out" means I am answering another question, briefly unavailable, or asleep overnight, so try again later.

I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.


Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

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"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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