Chrysler Repair/'95 Concorde: dies a second after starting/no codes
QUESTION: 1995 concorde starts but wont stay running, gauges don't work, power door locks don't work, wipers don't and the blower motor is stuck on high. Any help would be appreciated.
ANSWER: Hi David,
Starting with the electrical power issues:
Cluster gauges: check fuse 17 in the fuse block behind the left end-cap of the dash
Wipers: check fuse 10 in the same fuse block
Power door locks: Check fuse H in the power distribution box of the engine compartment
Blower motor: replace the blower motor resistor block located under the dash in close proximity to the blower motor housing at the right hand end of the HVAC distribution box. Remove the right side under panel at the lower edge of the dash for better access. Unplug it, remove 2 screws, drop the block out of the housing for replacement.
Please describe what you mean by won't stay running. How long does it run before it dies?
For possible diagnostic code use the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains "on", to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process and assure an accurate sent of flash counts. Tell me the counts in order of appearance and we'll go from there.
Please read the PS (below) and respond to it.
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QUESTION: Roland, I have owned this car since 1997. Its starts and runs for about a second , then dies. The security light on the dash is not flashing. I have checked all fuses at both areas, cleaned the ground under power dist. center under hood. I have removed pcm and bcm and cleaned connections. Already checked codes with ignition switch. No codes. The car ran fine one day, set for about a week and then this problem.
ANSWER: Hi David,
A no start/quick die but with no fault codes makes me suggest that the egr valve may be stuck slightly ajar. So locate it, mounted in a small diameter pipe that branches off the center of the right exhaust manifold. It has a vacuum-operated round top and between the top and the valve body connected to the pipe is a flanged area inside of which is the valve stem. Spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body, then use the tip of a screwdriver inserted in the circumferential slot in the stem to move the stem back and forth to loosen up the action. The stem should close the valve to a dead-stop via internal spring-action. Then see if it will run normally,
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QUESTION: Roland, I did what you said with the egr valve. That didn't seem to help, but I will try it again later to see if the WD-40 let it close(kind of tight to tell if it is completely closing). Is there anything electrical(ground, connection or module) that could cause these issues. It just seems weird that this all happened all at once. I mean one day the car ran fine and the next time I tried to start it, this happened.
You might want to verify that you are not loosing the spark after a second of running by observing a spark plug socket that has been pulled and a screwdriver inserted then held by the insulated handle so the shaft is about 1/4" from the cylinder head so that you can observe for the spark to jump the gap, while a helper tries the starter. If the spark were dropping out you should get a fault code. But absent that, my experience with a sudden onset of no/hard starting without codes is that it is a mixture problem associated with the egr being gummed up and the valve therefor not closing to a dead stop which leans out the starting mixture too much to sustain the idle. Do attempt to move the valve's stem back and forth via the slot and 'feel' that it is closing tightly to a dead stop.
Otherwise, I can't think of a specific electrical change that would cause this to suddenly occur. The only other possibility is if the vehicle theft system was not getting the message that it should disarm when you unlocked the door and that does produce a start but then quick shut off. Try locking/unlocking the passenger door just in case that might be the cause.
Please let me know of any progress.
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PS One last possibility that I experience a similar behavior was due to a MAP sensor which suddenly became inaccurate, though not so much as to set a code. That was diagnosed via readings on a diagnostic readout box which showed it was saying it was operating a 10K feet above sea level though that was not the case at all.
PPS It might be good to get the power door lock system running again as that may be impacting the disarming of the vehicle theft security system. Did those power locks drop out about the same time that the start/shut down began?