Chrysler Repair/P1603: '06 Sebring: trams OD clutch pressure test
QUESTION: Our earlier conversation:
<<<Subject: '06 Sebring 2.7 V6 - P0613 TCM?
Question: Issue began a few days after an oil change; I noticed the service guy manhandling the front of the car. He didn't know how to get the air filter cover off, so I showed him.
A few days later started intermittent P1603 and P1604(key pulled codes), then no codes but engine light still on. Went to Autozone and they pulled P0613--TCM error. Where should I start?
Answer: Hi Deb,
You didn't mention if there was any noticeable change in the way the car is running.
Interestingly, although the 0613 has TCM in its title, the explanation rather points to the powertrain control module, PCM. Similarly the 1603 and 1604 point to the PCM as the problem.
The first thing to check would be the condition of fuse 10 in the power box in the engine compartment and also fuse 11 in the fuse box behind the left end cap of the dash. Other than that verify that you show 12v on fuse 11 with the key in the Off, Run, and Start positions of the ignition switch. Then try checking the wire harness at the PCM. The conventional code "remedy" points toward replacing the PCM. But absent a performance issue I would not get into that.>>>
So...I checked fuse 11 in driver's side dash; fuse 10 in box both are ok, and 11 has 12v in all modes. Harness to PCM is tight and in place. Still no problems with the car other than the light and code 1603 (coming up on key pull again-Grr!) Any other ideas on what I can do?
ANSWER: Hi Deb,
The 1603 code is indicative of some sort of a disagreement between what is expected behavior of the PCM and the actual behavior. It is identified as a problem called "Internal dual-port RAM communication of the PCM". But there is nothing specific about how that would be manifested in the actual behavior of the engine. So we are still at the point of a fault code with no apparent manifestation of it.
The last wiring checks would be to verify at the exact pin of the PCM where the wire from fuse 11 connects to it to verify that it too shows 12v to be present in the off-run-start positions of the key. That pin is number 12 of the number 1 plug at the pcm (black exterior/black interior) which should be connected to an incoming red/white wire. You could remove the plug and measure the pin to verify that voltage expectation.
ADDITION: The other possibility is that the PCM grounding wires are loose/corroded at the ground point on the body. If you look at the flat metal surface above the left headlamp module, just to the left of the radiator, you will find a multiple wire lug that holds about a dozen different grounding wires from that part of the body including three from the PCM. So check that the lug and the hardware that secures it in place are all tight and if there is any looseness I would remove the hardware and clean all the wires' rings to remove any rust/corrosion which might be preventing a good ground of the PCM.
If it is verified the only solution, other than a cracked (intermittent) wire in fuse 10 or fuse 11, or an intermittent misbehavior of the ignition switch itself then the last choice would be to replace the PCM. But absent a malfunction of the engine you can notice, I would be inclined to just "live" with the check light being on until something changes. The PCM is expensive and also will require the use of a programming diagnostic readout box at a dealer to set it up properly to communicate with other modules. It is an expensive choice to make when it may not be relevant.
Thanks for doing the rating and nomination of me. You can do both again because you are allowed to offer 5 nominations that 'count' of me each month if you would be so kind.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Well...wound up replacing the transmission solenoid pack (about $150 at autozone), followed by PCM today--$169.00 off ebay programmed to my VIN. CEL off--YEA! O2 sensors aren't up yet to verify all is ok, but so far car still drives/shifts ok.
At any rate, CEL is off and hopefully problem is taken care of. If it's taken care of, $320 wasn't too bad!
Interesting note and my question: after replacing solenoid pack, went to transmission shop to have fluid/fiter change. Guy said OD CVI was 118-said this was too high and that OD needed to be rebuilt (for $2K). From what I've been able to locate, OD CVI should be 40-150. Is my info correct or was the guy right?
I am pleased to learn of your progress. I checked the '06 manual as regards the OD clutch and find that if tested per the manual it should be in the range of 75-95 psi, but unless you know the speed at which the wheels were turning when he took the measurement (the mph at that moment, ahould have been an indicated 20 mph and going in 3rd gear) I would not be concerned with a reading of 118. The issue is more likely if it is too low rather than too high. So I would just bide your time and observe the shifting and whether codes appear or not before doing any more for the transmission.
Thanks for the rating and nomination for "volunteer of the month". This is the last afternoon in July so if you would care to do both those actions now I would be most appreciative. I am in a tight race for the 'recognition'.