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Chrysler Repair/'97 2.5L: shut down after 15-30 seconds


QUESTION: Roland Hi sir I have some follow up for you on that 97 sebring convertible 2.5l that wouldn't stop blowing ASD fuse.Well got different PCM took care of all the asd issues I think  because now it fires right up but it will only run for maybe 10-15 seconds then shuts off again but as long as I turn the ignition switch on the off position and re-start and it will run at a high idle for just a half a minute or so any ideas?

ANSWER: Hi Steve,
The first thing to do would be to try for a fault code readout. Let me know any codes. Turn the ignition switch: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage reading is replaced by a 4-digit number preceded by a P. If not then instead count the flashes of the check engine light, which remains 'On' then begins to flash, pause, flash, etc.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland, I did the ignition diagnostic and it read it through the service engine light unfortunately,but it read 12,33,55.So the computer is reading with the car correct?So hopefully a good compu

Hi Steve,
The 55 means "end of code readout". The 12 means the battery was recently disconnected from the pcm which may just be due to you just installing it...or very possibly there could be a poor connection between the battery and our old friend fuse 5, so monitor the voltage on pin 53 of that fuse to verify that it is not disconnecting when the engine dies.
The 33 is about the A/C clutch relay circuit or the A/C pressure sensor circuit. You can take that issue out of the situation by removing the A/C clutch relay which is in the 7th socket of the power box, counting from the front.
So there is no obvious coded reason for the engine shutting off, but check those items.
Recheck the fault codes readout one more time.
The last thing would be to check out the egr valve which may be slightly ajar which could cause a too lean mixture. So locate that underneath the coolant temp sensor, mounted sideways.
It has a round vacuum hose operated top, and between that and the body of the valve is a flange. If you look in that flange area you will see the valve stem. Spray some WD-40 or similar lubricant on the stem where it enters the valve body. Then notice a slot in the valve stem into which you can insert the tip of a screwdriver and then move the stem back and forth against spring-action which tries to shut the valve. So move the stem and be sure that the spring closes it to a dead stop, in the closed position.
Let me know what you find. By the way I don't believe I heard of the history of how this engine was running before fuse 5 began to blow. Is there anything relevant there?

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Roland Finston


Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.


Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

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"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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