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Chrysler Repair/neon '96 starts and when you apply brakes it dies



Its been a while, Roland i have a situation my chrysler neon 96 automatic, dies when i apply brakes or come to a stop at traffic lights.  Only code i have is for oxygen sensor and torque convertor.   I changed the fuel pump and it idles well, when you place the gear to R, N, D It changes ok, when it moves first started to move it died on me, but quickly turns back on.  i managed to get it moving out of the yard until i applied brakes and it stopped but also died on the spot. IT STARTS UP again no problem. i put it on reverse it moved with power, but when i applied brakes it cuts off.  what could this be

ANSWER: Hi Tony,
Absent any codes, dying when slowing down/braking is often caused by the exhaust gas recirculation valve not moving to the fully closed position due to a build-up of crud around the valve stem. So find the valve, mounted horizontally at the rear of the cylinder head. It has a round vacuum hose operated top piece, a flange area in between that and the body proper of the valve which has the small exhaust pipe that runs to it and a pipe that goes around to the intake manifold. Hidden in the flanged area is the valve stem, the horizontal rod with a circumferential slot, and that slot is used to move the valve open and closed with a tip of a screwdriver. You will notice internal spring-action which tries to shut the valve.
When the crud builds up, the valve hangs up ajar. So try some WD-40 or similar spray applying to the stem of the valve where it enters the valve body. Then move the stem with tip of a screwdriver to loosen up the action. See if that solves the problem.
I would also replace the heated oxygen sensor mounted on the exhaust manifold (looks like a spark plug) as that will help the engine run at its most efficient mixture.
Please read the PS (below) and respond to it.

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QUESTION: Hi  i worked on the egr valve. Perfomance improved now i can move forward but i notice it it will go and cut at some stage l have not taken a long journrey . It feels like its shivering any suggestions

ANSWER: Hi Tony,
I would try the WD-40 and "exercising" the valve stem again. Does it seem to close to a dead stop by means of the built-in spring? You could also remove the valve and try cleaning the valve head and seat area inside. Also check the vacuum lines, particularly verify that the hose to the power brake booster is tightly attached. Did you replace the heated oxygen sensor?
Are there any other fault codes?
Those are my suggestions to try.
Thanks for the previous rating of my answer and the nomination of me for 'volunteer of the month'. If you would do both of those again I would be most appreciative.

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QUESTION: hi, quick one the car still gives me the same problem and its taking me back to re look at the fuel pump.  The pump i got says its a 3bar  85 litre per hour fuel delivery pump and when you do a conversion to PSI it converts to 43psi.  Now it idles fine, revs to 3000 fine,   engage  into gears and start moving it will move a short distance and apply accelerator it does not seem to take a load , fails to accelerate, and dies.  re starts quickly but now you can hear it back fire once or twice and when you apply the accelerator.  
the pump is new.  the regulator new, at the moment no codes, even with the key trick except for 12-55.  Do you think the pump is the problem cause the pressure is meant to be 48-50psi

Hi Tony,
I am not familiar with how the engine would perform when the pressure were lower than 49 psi, at a stated value of 43 psi, but it could well be that it is the cause of your situation. If there is no opportunity to get an exchange at no cost for a 49 psi pump then you might see if the manufacturer/dealer has a 49 psi regulator you could purchase to replace the 43 unit. The Neon manual describes how to do that exchange.
The pump has a 'deadhead' pressure of much more than 43 psi, so the proper regulator would likely give you the correct output pressure.
The gas flow is controlled by the injector pulse width and that in turn is based upon the assumption of a 49 psi source. So it would seem reasonable to modify the pressure regulator as you will otherwise not know the impact of the 43 psi you now have.
Thanks for the ratings and nominations in the past. If you would be so kind as to do that again I would be most appreciative.

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

I answer questions seven days a week and respond to you in about 30 minutes. "Maxed Out" means I am answering another question, briefly unavailable, or asleep overnight, so try again later.

I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2011 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.


Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

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"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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