Chrysler Repair/'92 LeBaron dashboard electrical gremlins
Hello Roland Finiston,
I got your name off the internet of course. I live in Santa Fe, New Mexico. I own a '92 LeBaron V-6 5 speed that I bought new. It always had dashboard issues, but lately they seem to have gotten serious. I should note that the car has been mainly in storage for the last 10 years, and only driven when we visited Santa Fe. We now live here, and she is a "daily driver."
The left turn signal has always clicked and operated at 3 times the speed of the right one. The tach and speedometer work intermittently, although lately mostly working. The ammeter works about half the time; the rest of the time it flatlines at "discharge" although this seems to not to reflect what actually is happening with the alternator and battery.
Now the issue that concerns me: When I drive at night and turn the lights on, the left turn indicator comes on after about 5 minutes and the warning bell starts in. Also the temperature gauge goes to "hot" although by turning the lights back off, it goes back down to normal.
Where can I get this addressed? Are there specialists that understand such gremlins.?
Thanks, Hal Beck
I assume this is a convertible or coupe body LeBaron, not a 4-door sedan. I also assume this is a conventional instrument cluster rather than an electronic cluster. Let me know if otherwise.
Every one of the issues you list either is located in the cluster OR involves a component which displays in the cluster, so starting there makes sense. I would be inclined to start by removing the cluster and unplugging it to see whether the left turn clicking rate goes to normal or not, and if so then that too is related to the cluster rather than the rest of the turn signal circuitry.
All of the other malfunctions involve individual wire in-coming information to the cluster, so again the focus would be on the cluster. I would be inclined to examine the incoming plugs (of which there are a black and a red, each with 14 pins) for any signs of damage/shorting of the wires. Then I would open the cluster and similarly insect the sockets' pins where they attach to the circuit board for signs of loose/corroded solder joints or potential short circuits due to cracks or debris. These solder joints are commonly found to be cracked but can be repaired by re-heating with a soldering pencil.
Then see what has changed in the functioning of the system with the cluster re-installed.
Removal of the cluster is done by first removing the surrounding switch pod, then the cluster mask, and finally the cluster proper. I can xerox and postal mail you the pages that show how to do that as well as the wiring diagrams for the cluster. You could send me back three first-class stamps to cover those costs.
I do have the name of a company that repairs the electronic type of cluster so they may also work on the conventional clusters. It is: Crescent Electronics in Windsor, Ontario at 519-972-0667. But I would believe that you may be able to correct these issues yourself.
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