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Chrysler Repair/driver side power window: '09 300


QUESTION: I have a 2009 Chrysler 300 that power window switch will not roll down driver side or passenger side window.  It will roll down the back though. Does that sound like a switch problem?  Also have the esp light that comes on with the tract control light?  not sure what that is.

These vehicles have very detailed ability to self-diagnose electrical problems. There may be fault code numbers that are accessible via the ignition switch: turn it "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window in the speedo unit to see if the mileage reading is replaced by some 4-digit numbers/letters and let me know what those are. If none appear, then a plug-in code reader would be able to access any such fault codes. Some nationwide auto parts stores, such as Autozone, will do that for free, or an independent auto shop will do that readout for about $40. S0 once we have those numbers there will be detailed instructions on what should be done.
About the windows, there are two different systems: one is 'base' model, and the more complex model has "express" action choices for up and down. Also, can the passenger side switch cause that widow to function?
About the traction control and esp (electronic stabiliby program) check the owners manual to see whether that light just alerts you that the esp has been activated and nothing more, or that there is some malfunction possible with the feature. We will see if one of the fault codes speaks to that feature or not.
I wish there were simple answers to your two questions, but the best approach is to quiz the electronics for self-diagnostic codes before doing anything.
Please read the PS (below) and respond to it.

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QUESTION: Yes the passenger does work on that side.

That would suggest either the switch is faulty or that a wire from the switch to other parts of the system is broken (there is a multi-wire harness that connects between the door and the instrument panel which of course is flexed when you open and close the door. That can lead to a wire failing.) To remove the switch requires the removal of the door panel which is a bit of a challenge so it would be better to try to repair the switch by means of squirting electrical contact cleaner from a spray can into the openings that surrounds the buttons operating switches in the hope that the problem relates to oxidation of the switch internal electrical contacts. You could get that at an electronic store. If that didn't solve the problem then it might be the case that the diagnostic code readout I described would differentiate between the switch contact or the broken wire as the cause. You might try flexing the wire harness in the door hinge area while at the same time trying the inoperative switch button to see if that restores the function and if so then it would be appropriate to enter the harness and find the fatigued wire and repair it.
If both of those approaches fail, then you would need to remove the panel and replace the switch. I can send you the page that describes how to do that to your email address. I would need to know that address. When you tell me it you should not use the @ symbol but rather use "at" otherwise the address is automatically erased from your follow-up question.
Thanks for the previous rating and nomination. I would appreciate your doing both of those actions in response to this answer. A questioner may make up to 5 such nominations of an Expert each month.

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QUESTION: I tried that on off on off on and nothing came up. And auto zone say they could only check the check engine light. Any other suggestions

Hi Amy,
Because of the continuing evolution of fault code capabilities, it is possible that by '09 the ignition key approach may have gone by the wayside. I would be inclined to try the electrical contact cleaner approach next. Spray a moment around the edge of the switch with the switch in up position, in the down position and in the neutral position.
I am thinking that the issue is related to the switching electronics inside the driver door itself, and that trying a shop to do a code readout would be worth $40 as it otherwise means "throwing parts" at the problem instead of having some clues to go by.
So, unless the spraying the openings around the buttons of the window switch corrects the problem, I would then try for a fault code readout at a shop, and then I would believe that you will want to have the sheet that shows how to get inside the door to correct what the readout suggests is the cause. Let me know what you learn, and also tell me whether your window system has the option of Express "up"/"down" or not.

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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