Chrysler Repair/'04 sebring gtc, 2.7l - no crank
I have already tried using both the fuel pump relayand the asd relay as they are the same part number, before contacting you originally.
The only way this is cranking is when bypassing from 30 to 87.
When cranking from the ignition switch there is a temporary power to point 87 when probing underneah the relay... as soon as I remove the probe the power is then gone until the car is cranked again.
no power seen to point 85 or 86 when cranking.
Is there an immobilzer on this vehcle? if so where? She was never given a remote for the car, but it only has a lock for one door.... which is indicitive of having a remote for door unlocking and remote engine start.
There as to be something somewhere that is telling the PCM "no go" refuse to start.
I still don't know: does the starter motor relay click and stay "ON" (putting 12V on pin 87) while you have the key in the START Position. I need to understand this point!
There is a vehicle theft security system that involves a sentry key immobilizer module but is not a "remote" starter system. The SKIM ignition key has a molded cap inside of which is a transponder that is sensed by the loop antenna that surrounds the ignition key hole. The system will not prevent the starter from working if the wrong key is used to try to start the engine...for 6 tries. After each try the engine will run for 2 seconds and then be cut off. On the 7th try the starter motor will be prevented from working thereafter.
Does the owner have such a key, has it worked properly previously, and did she try to start it 6 times, have it die 6 times, and then refuse to start at all? If so, then that may be why it won't operate the starter. Ask her.
BUT IF the starter relay really is working/clicking then the starter has to operate. There is always 12v on pin 30, if the relay clicks, then power will go to pin 87 of the relay and the starter will operate. So if the starter relay is indeed clicking then the theft system has not shut it down.
If the relay clicks and remains clicked, I can't understand why the starter won't work unless there is a bad connection between the pin 87 of the relay and the pin 87's socket of the relay such that the relay pin doesn't make good contact but the jumper wire does make good contact. Examine the pin socket to see if that might be the problem. It might be corroded or damaged.
I can send you 5 pages from the shop manual that describes the theft system that you can read over to understand if that may be what has happened. If there is no voltage on 85 or 86 when you try the key then that may well indicate that the theft system has locked out. BUT you told me that the starter motor relay CLICKS, and that cannot happen unless 12V appears on the inboard pin of the front 3 pins in the relay socket (is that what you are calling 85)? but you say that there is no voltage on 85. So it all doesn't make sense to me.
It may be that there is something wrong with the immobilizer or that it has cut off the ability of the starter to work and has not been 'disarmed'. What was the history of this situation when it first refused to start.
Tell me your email address and I will send the pages about the theft security system. But don't use the @ symbol, instead use "at" or the address will be erased.