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Chrysler Repair/2004 Chrysler sebring gtc, 2.7l - no crank


QUESTION: No signal to signal wire when in crank position.

ignition switch is brand new.

what should be the next step,  checking the power in and out from ignition switch?

IF yes then do you have a wiring diagram showing which color wire in and out as well as which connector I should be testing?  There are like 4-6 wire connectors going to that column.

Likewise, do you know if the neutral safety switch is external to the transmission, or must one drop the transmission pan to change the switch out?

Is there a way to test this switch without removal?

ANSWER: Hi Darren,
I am tied up this afternoon, but will give a longer response later.
The first thing to determine is whether the starter motor relay is clicking when you try the start position of the switch. Have a helper use the ignition switch while you listen/touch that relay which is located in the power box. That will tell you whether the ignition switch/safety switch/relay actuation is OK or not. Then we can focus on that, or on the connection from the relay to the starter solenoid/starter as the problem. Let me know what you find about the relay clicking.
Is this the same Darren who asked about the same vehicle earlier this week? If so go back over those Q and A's so we can focus in on this situation.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: yes .... same person

all relays and fuses are good

starter and solenoid is good

ignition switch is brand new

I went to test power to ignition switch, but there are a good 30-50 wires and within a good 4-6 wire connectors..... not sure which wire to be testing coming and going from the ignition switch...

If I can prove power in and out of ignition switch then the only thing left would be pwoer in and out of neutral safety switch.

ANSWER: When we last communicated on 1/31 you said the relay clicked, so the problem is not the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. You need to verify that the starter relay is indeed passing 12v on to the starter motor solenoid when it clicks. You can check the brown wire pathway from the relay's socket to the starter solenoid by jumping across the rear pin of the socket to the middle pin of the relay socket with a wire. It should cause the starter solenoid to close and the starter to crank. If not, then verify that you have 12v on the rear pin of the socket, and verify that you are or are not getting 12v on the brown wire at the starter solenoid. By doing the jump you are simulating a closing of the relay so it should work by means of the jump. If not then there is a problem with the brown wire as I explained to you.
So let me know if you have 12v on the rear pin of the socket, and if so whether there is a click at the solenoid when you do the jump.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: pin 5on 10 pin connector... ie brown wire = no power.

as or jumping the relay do you mean 30 jump to 87 or 87a which between 85 and 86?

Likewise, am I suppose to also have the EATX and ASD relays also clicking?

Was just told also that she was also receiving a NO BUS error prior to this happening, but the car was still running and all of the gauges were working.

Could there be a auto theft device that is killing the start function.  She was never given a remote when she bought the car used from a dealership?   If she does suppose to have one where would it be located?

I assume that you don't see 12v on the brown wire at pin 5 but that the starter relay is clicking, Correct?
If so, then check pin 30 in the starter relay socket and make sure there is 12v on it all the time because that is connected to the battery and is the rear-most pin of the socket. It should be there because that it comes from fuse 8 (unless it were blown) in the box which is connected to the battery.
If you have 12v on that, then jump a wire to the nearest pin in the "middle" of the socket which is also likely to be labelled 87. That jump should then put 12v on pin 5's brown wire to which it is connected and that should then immediately pass the 12v to the starter solenoid switch which should click and the starter should crank.
Likewise the ASD and eatx relays click, momentarily but then open if the engine doesn't crank and start.
"no bus" at the cluster might be irrelevant, or it could be that some data is not getting there, but it is at this point of no matter as regards the starter motor.
If the car did have a factory remote it would also not be relevant to the starter motor function as the factory remote works by allowing the starter to work but it shuts off the engine after it runs for a few seconds.

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Roland Finston


Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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