Chrysler Repair/'10 T & C: driver door power window switch
QUESTION: 2010 chrysler town and country. The drivers side window switch panel burned out (just like the recall said it would but my VIN was not listed under the recall. I purchased a new window switch panel for the drivers side door and connected with a new plug (i spliced the old wires ti the new wires in the pig tail). Nothing happens when I try to raise and lower the windows. I have swapped the fuse and still nothing. Not sure if there is a reset or something, someone told me there may be some fuse behind the door panel that I nee to reset. I am trying not to have to take of the door panel because they never go back on properly. Help???
ANSWER: Hi Stephen,
There are a number of fuses and a circuit breaker in the main power box that support the power windows. The fuse that powers the driver window/door lock switch is M26 whose power is there all time and is provided at pin 9, and the circuit breaker 1 is 25 amp and provides its power on pin 1 and 8 of the driver switch and comes to the breaker via the accessory relay.
So check those out. I don't see any fuses behind the door panel, but the circuit breaker in the front main box may need to be reset.
This info applies to the power windows of the regular minivan, and there are different fuses for the "base" model minivan. They are from the '09 Mitchell manual.
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QUESTION: Ive got a green wire, a green wire with a red stripe and an orange wire with a silver or white stripe...do you have any idea, which goes to what...and where is breaker ? I don't see it in the fuse box schematic
ANSWER: Hi Stephen,
The circuit breaker is adjacent to fuses J11 and J22.
I have some corrections to make:
What I described earlier is for the Base model of power windows.
The non-base model, which I assume is for the T & C are different.
In the non-base door there is a window switch with three wires, and a Module with several plugs, each with several wires. Is that switch what was replaced or was it the module? Or did the switch you replaced have several plugs(i.e. the non-base switch which doesn't have the additional module nearby)?
Sorry for the confusion but the labeling of the figures is misleading on this CD of the Mitchell Manual.
I can't be sure which wiring diagram applies to your vehicle. Tell me the number of plugs and wires per plug for you driver window switch, or whatever it is that you replaced.
By the way, there are detailed trouble codes for almost anything related to the body. If you can get a Code Readout for body fault codes that may be helpful. Let me know if you persue that.
As to the three wires, I don't see a plain green wire in the diagrams. Look again.
I do see the green/red and the orange/white but where they go depends upon which wiring applies, the 'base' or the 'non-base' so let's clarify that issue. Are the three wires loose or are they attached and if so to what?
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QUESTION: I am sorry , it has taken me some time to have the time to clarify. I have a new part that has the 4 window swithces and controls the side mirrors and locks and unlocks the doors. There are three wire that come out of the door that I had to splice...orange/white, green/red and another lite greenish...the piggy bag plug I am trying to connect from the door to the new part has three pins where the plug will connect...It looks like the is space for 8 pins but there are only 3 pins. The pins are together , bottom right where the plug would plug in. 1 5
1 1 1 0
0 0 0 0
I hope my little diagram comes across...if not there is a '1' upper left, a '5' upper right, a '6' lower left and a '10' lower right. the top 3 places have pins the rest do not. I have gone through a few fuses and really want to try to get this right. I will certainly rate the service. Whether or not I can figure this out your help has been great.
In my wiring diagram of the window switch/door lock switch and it is shown to have 3 wires going to:
pin 1 has the dark green/red wire which carries 12 volts coming from fuse M26 and likely provides operating current for the switch
pin 2 has an orange/gray wire called wind sw sns return that goes to a module inside the door which operates the necessary motors, etc.
pin 3 has the light green/light blue which is wire that carries a digital signal to the same module in the driver door which is labeled 'driver door lin'.
I believe that the wires on pins 2 and 3 are what tell the module which buttons have been pushed.
The manual does not show how many pins beyond those three there are on the switch nor where 1,2,3 are located. But if the pins are numbered they should agree with what I have described.
If those are the wire colors "coming out of the door" which were attached to the defective switch then you would probably connect them to pins 1,2,3 of the new switch.
Also verify that you have 12v on the dark green/red wire. If not check fuse M26.
That is the power window wiring.
On the power door lock diagram that same switch is shown to have 2 additional wires going to it:
pin 4 has a light green/tan
pin 6 has a light green/light blue wire identical to that on pin 3
The power mirrors circuitry is separate and I won't get into it at this point.
Let me know how this compares to what you have in hand.
PS: Thanks for the rating and nomination.
As to CB 1, it is for the rear vent motors, nothing to do with the front door windows. The power for the front door window is fuse J4 (25 amp) which powers the driver door module, which in turn powers the window motor via instruction it gets from the door switch, so check that one. If the front door courtesy light doesn't work it too is also powered by J4. Does it work?
I don't know what is the history of the "recall". Do you know what the problem was and what may have been the repair that was done under recall?