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Chrysler Repair/'04 Sebring 2.7L: SSR/ALT/EGR fuse #25 20 amp


QUESTION: I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring 2.7 L V6 (gas) with about 153,000 miles on it. The other night it stalled while I was sitting at a stop light and it wouldn't start. I had it towed home.
The only error code that comes up is P0688. I tested the ASD relay and it was fine. I pulled fuses from the Power Distribution Center and found fuse #25, a 20 amp fuse, labelled SSR/ALTlEGR. I replaced the fuse and the car started running and was fine for a few minutes. I shut it off and tried to start it 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start- the same fuse, #25, was blown again. I saw in a previous answer that this fuse is powered by the ASD relay, so I assume that is the cause of the error code. I would like to try unplugging the SSR/ALT & EGR components to see if any of them are causing the short, but I don't know what the "SSR" is.
Three questions-
1) What is the SSR and where is it?
2) Where can I get a diagram in order to trace the circuit if it isn't one of those components?
3) Is there anything I am missing in diagnosing the cause of the short?

ANSWER: Hi Peter,
I assume that this is a Sebring convert or 4-door sedan.
In the '04 manual I do find the fuse 25 but the fuse description/diagrams do not identify an 'SSR', but I would believe that is not a specific electrical part but rather a circuit name. The ALT is the alternator (generator) while the EGR is the exhaust gas recirculation valve circuit.
As I "read" the diagrams there appears also to be a dichotomy between an "early" and a "late" build so that may be relevant but I don't see anything regarding the fuse 25 specifically.
However I don't find the EGR to be involved with the fuse 25.
The Items that are shown as drawing on fuse 25 are: all 4 of the heated oxygen sensors on the exhaust system, the alternator, and the PCV heater. My suspicion would be that one of the 4 sensors has a short in its heater wire between the socket and the plug because these wire are very fragile and subject to a break. And the sensors are mounted on the exhaust pipes (before and after the catalytic converters) so are exposed to being damaged. The wire color is orange/dark green. I doubt it is the PCV heater or alternator that would be blowing the fuse. You could disconnect all the oxygen sensors to start and see if that then eliminates the blowing of the fuse. Then examine each sensors fine wires to see if you can find which one is shorting out.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you Roland. It is a 4 dr sedan.
Follow up-
Having a bad O2 sensor wire would prevent the car from starting?
I'm going to check the sensors out like you suggested, and the alternator and the PCV valve just to be thorough. I hope it isn't one of the wires going to the sensors as I have do not have the knowledge to test each one of the four wires to the bad sensor- I looked on the one sensor whose wires I could see and there were 2 gray ones, a blue one and a black one. The wires to the other sensor were wrapped up and I couldn't see their color.

ANSWER: Hi Peter,
Having an intermittently shorted sensor, if it took out fuse 25, would also prevent the engine from starting because that fuse also powers the PCM in the late model build cars. But the PCV valve heater also is powered by that fuse so it too if shorting will take out the pcm. So you could try disconnecting all 4 sensors and the heater and see if the fuse still blows, and if not then either check each sensor or put them back in 1 at a time to see which one blows it.
The incoming 12v is on an orange/dark green wire, on pin 2 of the sensors, while pin 1 wire is black and is grounded. If the short is in one of the sensors it would be due to the thin gray wires touching one another most likely. The Early build sensor plug is round. the late build is gray.
I can't describe where the pcv valve is located but I do have a drawing I can copy and send to you directly by email so you can probably locate it that way.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you. If you could send a copy of the drawing for the valve I would appreciate it.
I don't know if you'd be able to answer this last question, but while I was looking around near the driver's side of the engine, I noticed two conecters exiting the wire harness near each other. One of the connectors had 3 wires attached to it, a black, a gray, and a purple, and it was attached to the transaxle ata point where the transaxle is mounted to the engine. The other connecter was green with one white wire attached to it, but it wasn't attached to anything. I looked for something that was missing a conecter, but I couldn't find it. If you know what that is, I'd appreciate it, but if not, I understand.
Thank you again for your help.

Hi Peter,
I need to know your email address to send the drawing to you directly. When you tell me that in a follow-up question don't use the @ symbol but instead use "at", otherwise it will be automatically erased. The heater wire should be attached to it.
Finding the plugs you described is difficult. I would not be concerned if there is no place near to each for attachment.

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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