Chrysler Repair/'00 Sebring Convertible Door Lock: stuck 'locking'
QUESTION: When I unlock the driver side door lock with the key the lock immediately pulls back down like the solenoid is fighting me. The only way to open the door is to hold the key in the unlock position with one hand and open the handle with the other hand. Other door operates normally.
ANSWER: Hi Bob,
The door lock motor is controlled by the body control module. The motor has two wires and it appears that the lock motor will be activated to unlock or lock by 12v in one polarity or the other on those two wires that come from the body control module. You could verify that the polarity is set at 12v on those two wires and is not turned to the opposite polarity or even to 0v no matter what you do which is what you appear to be happening. If you look at the door hinge area you will see a couple of multi-wire harnesses and the one with a brown disconnect is the one you want to examine. The wires are on pin 9 (orange/black) and pin 10 (brown/white) so look at the voltage between those two wires. If not reversible by using the key lock switch and if always polarized in one direction then either the door lock switch is faulty or the body control module is faulty. Check the white/dark green wire on pin 11 of the that same connect and observe what is the voltage reading compared to chassis ground when the switch is in neutral and then in the lock and then the unlock positions. It should be 0 in neutral, and have different + values in the lock and the unlock positions. It could be a faulty switch, a faulty body control module, or a shorted wire.
Let me know what you learn.
[an error occurred while processing this directive]---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I could not find the multi-wire harnesses and the one with a brown disconnect at the door hinge area. I did pull the door apart and removed the the motor/switch to test it. It seems to be working fine so I fear it's the BCM. I can check the polarity on the wires in the door going to the switch. Would that do the same thing?
Yes, the wires that I described at the disconnect are the same ones that you will find at the door lock switch and at the door lock motor. So if you haven't put it back together then see what you find. (The disconnect actually is in the frame of the door opening so find the harness that jumps across from the frame to the door and carefully remove the grommet that surrounds the harness at door frame and that should reveal a disconnect at that point which I described.) But if you can still work inside the door, just disconnect the wires from the switch and the motor and measure to see what they are showing. I would suspect a shorted wire before thinking of replacing the BCM. There would appear to be 12v between the dark/blue white wire and orange/black wire which should not be there unless there is a 'request' being applied to either open it or close it (reversing polarity) and otherwise there should be no voltage between those two wires. Those wires come from pins 4 and 10 of the number 5 plug at the BCM (20-pin black).
I suspect that one of those wires is shorted to 12v from what you describe as the door lock behavior. You could remove that BCM plug and see what those 2 pin sockets show, and also whether the same wires at the motor are "cold" compared to a chassis ground metal nearby when the plug is removed. Those measurements should show you if it is a wiring short or the bcm at fault.