Chrysler Repair/Liftgate codes: '04 Pacifica
I talked to you before about my Liftgate problem. I'm just curious as to where a mechanic would access the body module to get a code? Is it easy to find and under the hood?
I gave it more thought and would like to see if I can open it manually by removing the panels. My hunch is that something got in the way of the latch when the wind blew it shut that caused it not to close all the way-- there was debris rolling around since I was moving. I remember a couple screws and other things loose and moved it out of the way once already.
Can you send those pages so I can see if my hunch is correct?
If I'm wrong, I'll have a mechanic find the codes. Can you tell me where to find the part to if in to get them?
I will copy and send the pages about removing the interior panels on the lift gate.
As to the readout of the body control module for fault codes related to the liftgate, there is a socket under the dash next to the steering column which is the one port for gaining access to all the control modules including the body. So the mechanic will access there and should have a code reader capable of getting into the body control module memory to get those either sentences or code numbers to focus in on exactly why the gate is not working. Tell me what code is found and I will look into that and send you the info about what to do for repair. Unless the parts you find loose are obvious as to where they go I would hold off on taking anything apart/putting back in until we get a code.
Thanks for the rating/nomination.
Here is the previous q and a's that we had:
04 Chrysler Pacifica Liftgate
QUESTION: Hi. I saw one question you answered about a Liftgate. I started taking apart the moulding but after a lot of work, I can't find the beige plug you're talking about or a slot. There are beige plugs everywhere and the area where the Liftgate would open from the outside is one solid piece on the inside. (except the cutout for the interior light).
2 years ago I was moving items in -30 below weather. It opened fine but when I came back from taking in stuff, it was closed but not completely. It was latched but there was a few inches until it was fully closed. It drained my battery. After I got a jump, it made a whirring sound and clicks still all this time later, but won't open. Auto Zone shut it hard so it would quit draining u battery. The fuse is fine.
I can't find what you're talking about in your answer from 2010. Is there a diagram to show me a better idea? I really need it open to move again. Chrysler's telling me it's a sensor without looking at it and it'll cost hundreds!
ANSWER: Hi Annette,
Rather than also look for the earlier answer I would suggest that I send to you be email a couple of pages that show the panel removals. I need to know your email address to do that but when you tell me it don't use the @ symbol, instead use "at" or it will be erased automatically.
As to the repair of the situation, there are 16 pages in the manual about the liftgate which is quite a complex device, so it would be very helpful to have an idea of what specifically might be the cause. There is a self-diagnostic capability of the liftgate control system which is accessed via a plug-in code reader. A auto repair shop with a reader capable of accessing the body controller should also be able to get the liftgate controller fault code readout. There are several dozen fault codes which are titled (not numbered as far as I can tell) so finding out which one of those is applicable would be very helpful. I have the manual that gives the steps for troubleshooting each of them and I could also copy those pages and send them to you.
So why not first try to get the fault code that is applicable, then I will copy all the pages that you need to get to the bottom of this problem. Just removing the panels will unlikely be sufficient to know what to do next.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I didn't realize there were codes to evaluate. That makes sense to find out what code it's giving off. I really hope the sub par mechanic that recently did some sub par repairs and is really ripping me off and did other questionable behaviors hasn't screwed up those codes. He replaced a transmission control module and had some guy reset the codes. I got my car back with 16,000 more miles than when I dropped it off. He charged me $150 just for that and told me he had it towed to Chrysler to have them reset the codes. It became a different story when I went to Chrysler and asked why my mileage jumped over 16,000 miles. The truth then came out- he was "mixed up" as to which car went to Chrysler. ( sure)
Anyway, he claims to have replaced another module, and the first time he attempted to fix my car, he said the reason why it was still in safe mode( after I drove it around the block and straight back to him angrily)was because the computers weren't communicating with each other before and admitted he didn't take it for a drive.
Is it possible I may not get an accurate reading for the Liftgate code since he clearly didn't reset the codes correctly for TCM?
Sorry for the length, but I thought I better tell you the potential problems with getting a correct reading. At this point I really don't know what he did to my car except replace a ground wire to the battery and replaced the TCM with a used one for $1200! He's "allowing" me to pay monthly. The car is back to the way it was before the dash lights started staying on with the key out. One day it just died while backing out of a driveway. That's how he ended up with it. I'm not from this town. It took a month to get it back to "normal". Now I need inner and outer tie rods and links and my subframe is rusted almost straight through.(Farm & Fleet showed me the issues). I really love my Pacifica but when one thing went, it started falling apart everywhere! It rusted that bad in only a year and a half. It was stored in a garage prior to being outside the last year and a half. I read about the problem with the engines falling out and hope I can get it reinforced before that happens! Chrysler refuses to admit they're to blame despite fixing 7,000 cars. I guess you had to be the lucky one with it made during a 6 week window to have it repaired. I'm not one of them. I just don't have a choice but to keep it and repair it. Problem is finding someone like you to fix it. Wish you lived in WI!
My email is uwish2 at gmx dot com.
I feel better already! I really haven't talked about my other recent repairs until now. Guess I needed to vent.
I rated you with all 10's and of course you deserve to be the Mechanic of the Month. :)
That is too bad you have had all these experiences. I now have your email address and will send you the pages that you need to deal with the liftgate. Maybe the mechanic can check for the fault codes store in the liftgate control module for free? They will still be there because even if they would be erased if the battery were disconnected but then they are re-recognized once the battery is reconnected and you try once to use the liftgate (try to open electrically, and then open it by hand and try to close it electrically). So let me know what shows up. As I said, the codes may just be in the form of a simple sentence rather than a 4-digit code number.