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Chrysler Repair/'00 T & C: no starter, no cluster


QUESTION: Hello....I replaced the radio and speakers in our Chrysler 2000 Town and Country I have power (all lights are fine) but the instrument cluster will not come on and it will not start at all.(no ignition) Any help would be appreciated!

ANSWER: Hi Carl,
Begin by checking fuse 2 under the dash, and fuse 28 in the power box in the engine compartment.
Those fuses are involved in the radio the instrument cluster, and several other devices and might even explain the no start. When you write back tell me which engine you have, and describe whether the starter is working, or is it that it does but the engine won't start. If the cluster will not come on still, do you mean the functioning or the illumination or both?
Also, try turning the ignition switch: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage reading is replaced by a 4-digit number preceded by a P. Let me know.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello again Roland and thanks for your reply..First off as to the engine it has a 3.8 L.The starter WAS working just fine. But dont know now because I have nothing when I turn the key at all....checked fuses and all are fine and the relays seem to be kicking in when the key is turned. Tried the "on off on off" 3 times and still nothing. In the instrument cluster I have working fuel gauge and temp but no odometer or "park, neutral, etc. indicator...the "illuminated" ones dont come on...the oil light, etc on the top "bar" do come up. I tried pulling and looking for a bad soldier on the instrument cluster panel in case it could be that but everything looks fine there too. The radio and all of the power seems fine also. I drove it AFTER I had changed the radio and everything was fine....went to replace the speaker on the passenger side door and had everything apart (door panel and all of the connections) But have since put everything back together. My daughter called for me to come and get her from work and when I went to start it up and go it started for a few seconds then shut down....tried again and it did the same thing...then it just quit trying to even start at all.

ANSWER: The starter needs to have fuse 10 under the dash to activate the starter relay so check that, and listen as to whether it clicks when you try the key or doesn't click. If it clicks then check fuse 23 in the power box as that is needed to power the starter solenoid switch. If the fuses are good but you get nothing and you are in P or N then the engine controller is not giving the starter relay the OK to close. So check fuse 16 in the power box, and the positive temp control "fuse" in position 1 (lowest row of fuse like devices under the dash) and also verify that fuse 16 shows 12V and the PTC 1 shows power when you try the start position with the key.
The cluster readings/prndl all need the digital communiation bus to operate and that comes in from the body control module. The BCM needs fuses 1,2,3,6 under the dash and fuses 19,22,28 in the power box to all be working.
Also, might the battery be too weak to activate the solenoid on the starter so that it clicks loudly?


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello again Roland and thanks for your help so far....have checked all of the fuses and relays and it all checks out okay. Tried jumping the battery just in case it was too low and still none of the "illuminated" lights of the instrument cluster (odometer and parking selector), or anything as far as starting but have power to everything else (radio, windows, doors, lights etc.)....there is no "click" to the starter at all. When I turn the key theres nothing. We tried re-setting the "anti theft" and still nothing, altho because of the way it started and then quit several times before it finally decided not to start at all I'm still wondering if it has something to do with the anti theft system or not?

Does the starter relay itself click when you try to start? Listen/touch for it in the power box.
If you have the factory anti-theft device it usually functions by allowing the engine to start but then cutting it off after a few seconds. It will typically allow that to happen for about 6 times before cutting out the starter motor entirely. This applies to the situation where you have the sentry key immobilizer module type of anti-theft system (where key handle has bulge). Is that what you have? Did it shut down 6 times in a row before no longer allowing the starter to work, or just "several"?
If you would care to rate/nominate me for one of these answers please feel free to do so.

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Roland Finston


Get a Free Fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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I have do-it-yourself experience (50+ years) and a library of 100 1982-2012 Chrysler factory shop manuals and 20 multi-manual Chrysler Corp. CD's.

I was voted "Top Expert" 2010-2015, here at AllExperts, and have answered 20,000+ questions.


Five decades as a 'do-it-yourselfer' on domestic and imported cars.

Yahoo Autos Group called The Chrysler Lebaron Club (co-moderator)

Advanced degrees in Physics/bruised knuckles

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"Top expert" of 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 here at Allexperts. Quickest "average response time" at Allexperts (currently no. 1).

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