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Chrysler Repair/97 Sebring Odometer works intermitant ly


Tom wrote at 2006-06-29 02:13:59
I can not take credit - I found this solution on another page after reading about the same problem on your site and thouht I would pass it along.  I have a 96 Sebring and this problem has been with me for over 5 years - Well enough is enough.  I tried the procedure below - you need to be a little bit technical but it is much easier than it sounds - AND IT WORKS.  My problem is completly cured.  The resistors are burnt and the connections were broken just as explained.

Instructions to repair a non-functional odometer and tachometer on a

Chrysler Sebring

Total time to fix is under 2 hours if you are comfortable with using a

soldering pen and disassembly of interior components.

1.  Disconnect the negative battery terminal

2.  Remove the trim around the radio and temperature controls.  This

just pops out, being held by four clips.

3.  Remove the fuse cover on the left end of dash.

4.  Remove one (1) dash cover screw from inside fuse area

5.  Remove four (4) dash cover screws from the radio and temp control

area.  There are two on each side.

6.  Lower the steering wheel to the lowest position

7.  Remove the dash cover by pulling straight out.  There are four (4)

clips that must be carefully disengaged.  I found that when pulling

the cover straight towards me while sitting in the driver's seat, the

clips disengaged very easily.  (Note:  if your car is equipped with

the temp/directional computer you will need to pull the dash cover

away about 2-4 inches.  Then reach up through the radio/temp control

area and disconnect the plug that attaches to the temp/directional

computer).  Set dash cover aside, being careful not to scratch it.

8.  Remove the instrument cluster by removing four (4) screws (two on

top and bottom).  Now pull straight out on the instrument cluster.

9.  Disconnect the two plugs on the backside of the instrument


10. Remove wiring from the instrument cluster.  The wiring harness is

covered by a foam-covered piece of tape.  I cut this, and re-taped

with electrical tape upon reassembly.  You might be inclined to try

and pull the tab holding the wiring harness out of the instrument

cluster--my advice is don't.  Instead, pull the tab away from the

wiring harness.  The tab is shaped like a "T" with the wiring harness

attached to the upper part of the "T" with black electrical tape.  I

slid each part of the "T" out of the tape and left the tab in the

instrument cluster.  Now the instrument cluster is free from the

vehicle.  Be careful not to scratch the front of the instrument

cluster.  Whenever setting the cluster aside, be sure to do so with it

facing upwards.

11. Remove the "cardboard" backing to the instrument cluster that

protects the circuit board.  I think there were 4-6 silver colored

screws that required a torx driver to remove.

12.  Investigate the circuit board for the resistors and darkened

circuit board.  You will see a cluster of three blue resistors (I

think two of the numbers were R101 and R210) and the board around them

will be slightly brown to black.  Turn the circuit board over and you

will see that the contacts have come loose or are broken all together.

Also in this same area, on the backside, near these resistors is a

contact that simply put, is a loop (comes through the board and

connects with a solder point). On mine, this "loop" was broken away

from the solder.

13.  Remove the circuit board from the instrument cluster.  On the

circuit board, you will see several silver colored screws, remove all

of them.  I want to say there might be as many as 10 or 12.

14.  Unplug the circuit board from the instrument cluster.

15.  Use a low voltage soldering pen to re-solder the resistors and

that "loop"  mentioned earlier.

16.  Once cooled, reassemble.  When reattaching the wiring to the "T"

tab, just use new electrical tape.  

Mike Walsh wrote at 2009-03-08 23:30:06
Wow! I was actually wondering whether to scrap our Sebring as the odometer had stopped lighting up permanently and the car had failed its NJ inspection for that reason. I'd been told the whole dashboard unit would need to be replaced at a cost of around a thousand dollars.

I sat down with these excellent instructions and within 2 hours I had it fixed, all for the cost of a quarter of an inch of solder. Thanks very much. You're a real star!

jpink728 wrote at 2011-05-08 00:53:23
The problem that you are having is the board behind the instrument panel guage cluster. There are three blue diodes (2 big1 small) that get very hot and burn out part of the soldering on the board. if you search it online there is a couple postings on how to fix this problem yourself with only an hour or two of your time but you need to have a little mechanical and soldering behind your belt. good lug

jpink728 wrote at 2011-05-08 00:55:42
Here is the link to fix your problem.  

dpeters30 wrote at 2013-11-11 22:07:16
The link above is no good - here's the new link:

Chrysler Repair

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Roland Finston


Free fast answer to your repair question about a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car, minivan, SUV, or truck. Problems with electronically controlled engines and transmissions as well as body wiring problems are my specialty. This free troubleshoot advice forum helps you diagnose faults, minimize repair costs or do-it-yourself.

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