Chrysler Repair/Draining/dead battery 2000 Chry 300M
Guitarz17 wrote at 2011-05-26 23:44:24
I have been through the same thing for about 3 months, and have finally found the solution. A simple $6 fix. After buying 3 new batteries in 3 months time (Got the last 2 under warranty)getting stuck multiple times away from home, using all my free AAA calls, going to the chrysler dealership and getting the $90 diagnotics that said nothing is wrong with the car, I had a friend who found the problem. He used a multimeter with the red probe on the positive terminal on the lug above the battery while touching the negative probe at various places in the engine bay only to find there was no ground signal at most of the places he tried. It was obvious the ground was going away. So, he removed the air box, had me crank the car and turn everything on.....lights, wipers, radio, etc. He then reached down and started to wiggle the battery cables at the battery. When he started to move the negative cable about 4 inches from the terminal, the car died. Everything was dead. He moved it again, and it came back alive. It cranked fine. There was the culprit! The negative cable was failing inside the jacket. So, we went to O'reilly auto parts, and got the 32-inch replacement battery cable they sell for $6. Put it on, and it has been fine ever since. Even the lights are about 50% brighter! Hope this helps those with the same problem!
David Platner wrote at 2012-12-13 18:23:05
I'm having similar problems with my 2012 Journey. Battery is going dead in just over a week. The car is currently at the Chrysler dealer, who just informed me that they have completed their diagnostic tests and have found nothing. The battery is charging and holding a charge (at least for the duration of their test). Their suggestion is to hook the Journey up to a trickle charger, which is difficult to do at Detroit Metro Airport. I can read my tire pressures and many other functions, but there is NO provision for battery voltage. Second suggestion is to keep the key fobs at least 30 feet from the vehicle, since any closer than that, the passive electronics are activated and seeking various modules while drawing battery current. Interesting suggestion, but not very practical and not entirely accurate, since we have always kept the keys near the garage door and this battery issue was not present in June, when we picked up the vehicle. Third suggestion was to use the "shipping disconnect" which is present on my 2010 Caliber, but removed in 2012 for a "dealer activated shipping key", which is not available to the public. Fifth suggestion is to go to an auto parts store and buy a manual battery disconnect switch. Additional info: the ECU toasted itself last month and had to be replaced. I have one additional suggestion: get rid of the Journey.