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Classic/Antique Car Repair/1940 Buick Ignition Coil
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Question
Dick Benjamin answered a previous question about a problem I am having about "no spark". I have confirmed the problem is not in the distributor or the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor. The ignition switch has 6V present and switches the secondary wire but I do not know if it switches the lead in the armored cable. Can I remove the armored cable? How? If I need to replace the coil does it have to have the armored cable? How about that! Three qustions at one shot.
If I answer all three do I win the trifecta? Well lets try. First of all you will not need to get into the armored cable to check to see if the coil is being switched on. The simple test is to make sure the ignition points are open. We used to use a match book cover between the contacts. Then turn on the key and touch a test light or voltmeter to the terminal on the coil that connects the coil to the distributor. If the light goes on then there is voltage getting through the coil. If that checks then close the point with the key on and the test light still connected. The light should be out at this point as the voltage will take the path of least resistance to ground. If the light is still on or voltage present then there is a problem with the points or the breaker plate ground wire. It was a common problem in the day as it flexed each time the breaker plate was moved by the vacuum advance. If you need to remove the armored cable cap on the coil, it should turn 1/4 turn counter clockwise to release the locking device. Using a replacement coil that will connect to the armored ]cable will keep your engine compartment pretty but the car will run just fine on a universal 6 volt coil. In fact I have run these old 6 volt cars using a 12 volt coil that is made to be used with an external resistor. 12 volt cars that used the external resistor operated on about 7 volts, just what the voltage is in your old Buick when the generator is charging. So, do I win?
Brad
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| Rating(1-10) | Knowledgeability = 10 | Clarity of Response = 10 | Politeness = 10 |
| Comment | Thanks Brad. Your answer was very helpful. I don't think the problem is in the distributor which was just rebuilt by Advanced Distributors and I was able to check the lead from the coil to the distributor. It is either in the armored cable, the switch or the coil. Now that I know how to get into the armored cable I will find out. Because you answered three questions, your name will go in the hat three times. The hat contains the names of all the people who have answered my dumb questions over the past 80 years (not so many now because some of them are dead!). The executor of my will has instructions to draw a name from the hat when I die. The prize will be what remains of my estate after the kids have taken what they want. Don't despair, it might be a 1940 Buick | ||
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Answers by Expert:
Brad Sears
Expertise
All automotive including antique and collectible. However if the car has been modified I can only answer in general terms and maybe get you pointed in the right direction.
Experience
Automotive tech instructor.
Syndicated auto columnist 1970's though the early 1990's.
Syndicated auto radio talk show, Ask Brad About cars, CBS Radio 70's through 90's
TV Show "Last Chance Garage" 1980's PBS-TV syndicated.
Auto instructor for the following companies:
Fram
Autolyte
Holly
Carter
AMF
Ford Motor
University Of Conn
Blue Hills Technical School
Sugar River Technical Center
Grew up in a family garage in Needham Mass and turned wrenches from the age of 14.
Publications
Manchester Union Leader, Nashua Telegraph, Motor Service Magazine, Yankee Magazine, Popular Mechanics (Saturday Mechanic early 80's), Los Angeles Times, New York Times, and lots more.
Education/Credentials
More than I care to remember.
Basically Franklin Technical Institute in Boston, Northeastern University, Fitchburg State Teachers College, Tufts University, and a lot of factory schools along the way.
Awards and Honors
Moto Award winner. And much more.
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