Expert: John Newman - 10/7/2009

Question
QUESTION: We just purchased a used Emperor Grandfather clock Model# 101. The previous owner explained to me how to operate the clock, remove weights when moving it, using leveling legs to get it level, etc. Upon moving the clock to our house I leveled it per what I was told, put the heavier weight on the right chain and the other two weights on the center and left chains, respectively, and set the time. I was also given an 8 page document on the Installation and Operating Instructions for the model# 101 movement. Unfortunately while moving the clock home our dog stepped on the glass over the clock face and broke it. She apparently removed her foot once the glass broke under her weight because the clock face has just a few minor scratches in it. It was covered with a blanket when this happened and we got it home and removed the larger glass pieces and vacuumed up the rest. The hour hand was bent and touching the clock face so I gently straightened it out. But the clock hasn't chimed since it was set up and it worked fine as the previous owner demonstrated. The C.T. weight moves, the T.T. weight moves but the S.T. weight hasn't moved (looking from right to left). I pulled the weights up as far as they would go when the clock was set and weights mounted. The chains aren't knotted or jammed in any way that I can see. It keeps time ok and when the minute hand reaches the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and hour marks I hear a click but no chimes. The clock has been running for about 16 hours now. There is oil on the tops of the weights which I wiped off before mounting them. I noticed in the Operating Manual under "Chimes not Operating Correctly" that it says to wait 24 hours BEFORE making any adjustments. On the backplate of the movement is says from top to bottom: 78, made for Emperor Clock, by Hermle-USA, 451-050, with 94cm over the number 65. I hope this information helps. Could you please tell me what might be wrong?

ANSWER: Don. I don't think the dog breaking the glass had anything to do with it.  As far as winding, the weights do not have to be pulled up as far as they will go, but that won't hurt anything as long as they are not jammed.  There are some slight differences in weight requirements for these model clocks, but not much.  The left and center weights (as you face the clock) should be somewhere between 4.4# and 4.7# and right weight should be 6.6#.  If the clock has a decorative metal rod lyre pendulum, the center weight should be 6.6#.  If the chime train (right side) is not working, the weight will not move.  Also the strike train will not run as it is dependent on the chime to complete its cycle.  Therefore the right weight will not move.  I don't know how the chime weight weight would be moving if the chime is not working.  There is one possible explanation.  Carefully (so the pendulum or weights don't swing excessively) move the clock away from the wall and remove the top back panel.  Some of these movements have 2 chime transporting levers that are attached to the top back corners or the movement.  They are rotated to keep the chime and strike hammers from striking the rods during transporting the clock.  They could be inhibiting the chime and strike hammers.  If so, rotate them out of the way.  If this isn't the cause, turn the minute hand around to the top of the hour and listen for the click.  Look at the chime hammers and see if any are out of alignment at the rest position.  Gently rock the melody cam (on your left) back and forth and see if it will start chiming.  Also check to see if the strike hammers are resting close to the rods.  Two more things.  I believe the instructions to wait 24 hours before making any adjustments has to do with the timing of the pendulum, as a difference in temperature has an effect on the timekeeping.  If the clock was keeping good time at the pervious location, it should not require and adjustment.  The oil on top of the weights concerns me a little, but I don't think it would have anything to do with the chime problem.  If for some reason oil was applied excessively to the movement, it would possibly drip down onto the weights.  If this is the case, I would recommend having an experienced clockmaker look at it and clean it up.  Excessive oil can only hurt a clock.  Check some of this out and let me know what is happening.


John Newman
THE VILLAGE CLOCKSMITH
Old Prattvillage
Prattville, Alabama


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I did forget to mention one thing. As I was setting the clock up I moved the minute hand to each 1/4 hour mark and the chimes originally were working for about 4 times. After that I set the clock time correctly and just assumed that the strike and chime trains would "adjust" within 24 hours. At this point there have been no chimes or hourly strikes since my initial manually moving the minute hands. The levers locking the mechanisms are fully in the unlocked position (towards the outboard of the movement). I checked the weights and they are positioned correctly as per your description. As the clock chimed and struck the few times I moved the minute hand manually one note was extremely faint while chiming and striking. Maybe this information will help a little more.

ANSWER: Don, if everything is operating correctly, the strike should correct within one hour and the chimes in one to two hours.  When the chimes and strike trip to operate, observe to see if the hammers are moving back at all and then releasing.  If they are, it seems as they are not hitting the rods and would have to be adjusted.  Let me know.

John Newman

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I found the problem. Apparently one of the "micro" springs had come off the tab that triggers the hammer hitting the chime rod. It was the rearmost hammer. Once I reconnected the spring everything started working. Two other things though, 1) The minute hand is 3 minutes behind the exact 1/4 hour chime positions. How can that be remedied? 2) One of the hammers in the chime is striking its note faintly or not at all. How can that be remedied also? Aside from those two things, everything is working fine...

Answer
TO ALIGN THE MINUTE HAND WITH THE CHIME OR STRIKE POSITION:

If the clock has a pendulum, stop it from swinging.  If it is a
balance wheel type do not try to stop it.  Turn the minute hand
through the quarters, allowing each one to chime until it gets to
the hour chime and strike.  Disregard the position of the minute hand.  
Without turning either hand, remove the hand nut and the minute hand.  
It should have a brass (sometimes painted black) round or hex
bushing on the back.  Using a good set of pliers and the hand
at a right angle to the pliers (this is to keep you from pinching
your fingers in case the bushing slips from the pliers), grasp
the bushing with the pliers and GENTLY slip the minute hand to
what you estimate to be where it should be pointing to the hour.
Put the hand on the handshaft and check to see if it points to
the 12.  If not, adjust it some more.  When it looks good, secure
it with the hand nut.  Run the minute hand around to the quarters
checking to see if the chime trips at any quarter or the hour.  
Sometimes a few tries are required due to the play in the
components of the clock.  Then reset the clock to the correct time
and if stopped, start it again.



TO ALIGN THE CHIME OR STRIKE HAMMERS:

First, the chime sound board and chime block screws should be very tight.  Any looseness will cause diminished sound and quality.  For the preliminary set up, each chime hammer should be aligned with its respective chime rod.  The center of the hammer head should be in line with its rod and parallel to the line of travel.  Another way to look at it is that it should not be angled off to one side.  At rest, each hammer should be approximately 1/16" to 1/8" from the rod.  Pull the hammer back one hammer length and release it. It should give a solid strike without double-striking or thudding.  If it does this, the hammer wire needs to be formed back a little.  If the volume is reduced too much, it needs to be reformed closer to the rod a little.  Do this with every one of the chime hammers.  When you have completed this sequence, test it by turning  the minute hand around the quarters letting it chime on its own.  As the chimes will possibly lift differently than from when done manually, they might need a little more find tuning.

The strike hammers will be done in a similar way with this exception:  The four hammers all strike at the same time making the adjustment a little different.  If  3 of the hammers are at the proper rest position and one is resting on its rod, when it is formed back the other three will move closer to their rods and the will  have to be adjusted back a little.   This will now possibly put the first one out a little. The procedure is to form each alternately until they all strike with good volume and do not double-strike or thud.  A good example of this is a four-legged stool with one leg longer than the other three.  You cut it off and find you have cut a little too much.  Now you have to cut the other three to match the first one.  Fortunately, we are not doing any cutting on the hammers. 8>)

I hope this helps.

John Newman
THE VILLAGE CLOCKSMITH
Old Prattvillage
Prattville, Alabama