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Question
QUESTION: we were lucky enough to have just purchased a used hermle black Many thanks.

ANSWER: Brenda, try again.  Your question was not completed.

John Newman

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Apologies!  I don't know what happened.  The clock keeps perfect time, and chimes as it should on the quarter, half ect.. in the correct sequence, our problem is when it plays (Westminster chimes!) it sounds like a bunch of stray cats wailing!  It seems like the notes are there, but it is playing them out of sequence. Is there any way to correct this?  Many thanks

Answer
Brenda, by your description I am not sure what is going on.  First, I might need the model of the movement.  However, if it is a Westminster (only) it would probably be a Hermle 451 or possibly a 461 or 471.  If it is a triple-chime it would probably be an 1151, or possibly and 1161 or 1171.  There are probably a couple more of the floor clock models, but those are the most popular.  If it any of these, the following would probably would apply.  Since you mention the Westminster, let's look at the first quarter sequence.  The hammers should hit the rods #1, #2, #3 and #4, starting with the back one as #1.  If this is not happening, the chime sequence could be out of sync.  This could be caused by something slipping, such as the intermediate wheel (gear) on the back of the movement.  It has a set screw that is loosened to set the chimes up in sequence.  If this needs to be done, I will have to instruct you on how to align it.  If this is a triple chime movement, it could be that the chime selection mechanism is out of alignment and the chimes are playing between selections, tripping hammers from both tunes and even skipping some.  That adjustment is even more complicated.  Now, as far as the "wailing cats", I'm not so sure I can relate to that problem!  The only thing I can offer to do is to align the chime hammers with the rods:

First, the chime sound board and chime block screws should be very tight,  Any looseness will cause diminished sound and quality.  For the preliminary set up, each chime hammer at rest should be positioned approximately 1/16" to 1/8" from its chime rod.  The center of the hammer head should be in line with its rod and parallel to the line of travel.  Another way to look at it is that it should not be angled off to one side.  Pull the hammer back one hammer length and release it.  Id should give a solid strike without double-striking or thudding.  If it does this, the hammer wire needs to be formed back a little.  If the volume is reduced too much, it needs to be reformed back a little.  Do this with every one of the chime hammers.  When you have completed this sequence, turn the minute hand around until it chimes on its own.  As the chimes will possibly lift differently from when done manually, they might need a little more find tuning.

The strike hammers will be done in a similar way with this exception.  The four hammers all strike at the same time making the adjustment a little different.  If 3 of the hammers are at the proper rest position and one is resting on its rod, when it is formed back the other three will move closer to their rods.  They will have to be formed back.  This will now possibly put the first one out.  The procedure is to form each a little alternately until they all strike with good volume and do not double-strike or thud.

Good luck and let me know if this does not do it or you have any more questions.


John Newman
THE VILLAGE CLOCKSMITH
Old Prattvillage
Prattville, Alabama

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John Newman

Expertise

As much as I would like to offer values of clocks, I am not a certified appraiser and will not venture into giving an unresearched guess. There is very little published information on what I consider to be the value of "modern production clocks". Considerations are what the clock originally sold for, the condition of the case and movement, and particularly the area in which you live, the demand and the economy. ALSO, WATCHES ARE NOT MY FIELD. However, I can advise the clock owner on proper maintenance of a clock to keep it running, small corrections and adjustments and how to move a clock without damaging it. I can also advise on obtaining parts for clocks. It helps if you can send any information on the clock movement which is usually found on the back plate of the movement. I have been a clockmaker for about 35 years and was plant engineer in the mid 90's and later operations and engineering consultant at Emperor Clock Company in Fairhope, Alabama. I now have my own clock shop.

Experience

One of my greatest accomplishments was traveling to China to assist a clock factory in building clocks to the standards which we required. With the proper specifications and quality control, some beautiful clock cases were built. The factory people from the wood carvers to the plant manager were very congenial, friendly and I left a lot of wonderful friends when I returned from my trips.

Organizations
Chamber of Commerce Small Business Committee

Publications
Horological Times, a publication of the American Watch and Clockmakers Instute. Collaberated column author, with Photos and ideas for clock movement conversion article.

Education/Credentials
Associate of Science Mechanical Engineering Technology Emperor Introductory Clock Repair (Eventually taught a portion of the class after becoming employee)

Awards and Honors
Small Business of the Quarter (Prattville, Alabama) Leadership Class of 2009 (Autauga County, Alabama)

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