Expert: John Newman - 1/13/2011

Question
I have my Father's Diplomat grandfather clock (model 1000-1M) with a movement stamped 81, HERMLE, Black Forest Clocks, Amherst, Virginia, 451-050H, 94cm/66.  I have attempted to start it but I am unsure of the leveling requirements and other adjustments needed.  I have played with it but cannot get it to run for more than 1 or 2 minutes.  There is a mechanism that the pendulum hangs from that appears to be a screw-adjusted tensioning device.  Changing the screw position affects the length of time the clock will run.  The drive is chain driven.  Do you have a manual for this movement/clock or can you offer suggestions?

Answer
I do have a manual, but I will have to get a description of the movement, as there were three slightly different versions manufactured.  At the top back of the movement there is a horizontal post about 1/4" in diameter.  A suspension spring is held in a slot with a pin or a small thumb screw.  A hanger, steel or brass about 6" long hangs from it and the pendulum is hooked on the hanger.  The way you describe it is that the hanger has the adjusting screw on it.  Is this correct?  This type does set the beat, which has to be correct for the clock to run reliably.  Most of these I have seen sold by Emperor were on the model 100M, but Diplomat could have used that type of hanger on the 451.  Is it possible for you to send a clear photo of the back of the movement to my shop email address below?  I can then tell what the configuration is.  I will also give you some details on the manual.

I'm going to include a write up on a "Clock Not Running" and you can look particularly at the "in beat" explanation and then check the other things.



THE FIRST LEVEL IS THE SETUP.  

For Floor Clocks   If the clock is in operating condition but not working, I would check the stability of the clock in that it doesn't rock or wobble on the floor.  It should be relatively level.  The level is not critical, as setting the beat (below) will correct for this.  

Next, verify that the weights are hung correctly.  On most clocks the weights vary in weight.  The general rule is that if two weights are equal, the third weight, if it is heavier, goes on the right side (as you face the clock).  If the third weight is lighter, it goes on the left.

Is the pendulum hanging configuration correct?  This means that the suspension spring, hanger, verge and pendulum are all connected properly with nothing broken, especially the suspension spring.  When the pendulum swings, it should be "in beat", meaning that when the pendulum swings you hear an even tick....tock....tick....tock.  If it is uneven, like tick..tock......tick..tock, the clock will probably stop.  Most later model movements have an "auto-beat" mechanism.  The beat can be set by holding the pendulum over to one side next to the case and releasing it.  It will automatically correct itself.  If it does not have this feature, the escapement crutch will have to be slipped manually, or some clocks have a hanger with an adjustment screw which can be turned for this purpose.  If required, I would need a good description of the verge and hanger mechanism or a photo of the back of the movement to give you instructions for that.  Also check to see if the hands are catching on each other or the dial.  Look at the chime and strike hammers to see if they are all in alignment at the rest position.  Sometimes jammed hammers or the drive mechanisms will stall the clock.

For Mantle or Wall Clocks   The clock should be stable and not wobble or rock.  There should be an even beat.  If not, wall clocks can be set in beat by moving the bottom of the clock to one side or the other.  Some wall clocks have the auto-beat adjustment.  Mantle clocks can be shimmed up on one side or the other to obtain an even beat.  These methods work if the beat is not off too much.  If the out-of-beat condition of these clocks are excessive, other adjustments have to be made.


THE SECOND LEVEL INCLUDES MAINTENANCE

Usually, the first symptom of a clock failing is that the chime and/or strike mechanisms slow down and then fail altogether.  At this point the clock needs to be serviced.  This includes cleaning, inspecting, oiling and adjusting.  In the inspection, the movement is checked for adjustments, broken or worn parts.  If there are any broken or worn parts, we go to the third level. If all parts are okay, a good clock oil and grease is used.  In most cases the movement should be removed from the case to have access to all the lubrication points.  Clock lubricants can be bought from clock suppliers.  Using lubricants for other applications can cause problems, as some lubricants are not compatible with others.  This even applies to different clock oils.  After lubricating, the operation is checked for final adjustments.  I recommend maintenance be performed every 7 to 10 years.


THE THIRD LEVEL IS REPAIR.

This requires that the movement be broken down and all parts inspected and repaired or replaced, and then reassembled lubricated, adjusted and tested.  I do not recommend this except by an experienced clockmaker.

John Newman
THE VILLAGE CLOCKSMITH
Old Prattvillage
Prattville, Alabama

klokdok@juno.com

(Due to the number of Allexperts questions and
the workload I have at my clock shop, I regret
that I cannot answer personal email questions on a timely basis
other than Allexperts follow ups.)