Cocker Spaniels/fearful 20 month male (n)
Expert: Delores Beck - 7/8/2008
QuestionQUESTION: He was kept in a kennel with litter mates til 1 yr old, so badly undersocialised. Now copes well with traffic etc; copes ok (if cautiously) with people. beginning to relax with bouncy children. Utterly terrified of cats (except our own, who he's happy with if a little prone to jealousy when we pet her). If he sees a cat he turns tail and runs, howling. if he smells a cat he gets very anxious and I can't get his attention. He used to be brilliant with other dogs, but now behaves the way he always did with cats. For the 8 months I've had him I've had the policy of ignoring his fearfulness and carrying on as if everything was just normal. But this hasn't helped, and he's now so bad that I need to re-think the whole thing. He has never been attacked by either a cat or a dog, so I don't understand why he's got so much worse. And he used to invite all dogs to play. Still does sometimes, but I can't figure out what the fear trigger is. Any advice?
ANSWER: It seems as if he's improved a lot on some levels (traffic-people-children) and now is fearful of other dogs?
I need to know how he demonstrates this? Where this happens?
Just on walks or when another dog visits? What do you do when this happens? How well trained is he in general?
You've taken the right attitude in not comforting but "carrying on" as if all is fine. And it sounds like you've done a great job with him in general. Take heart - this is solveable.
Delores
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: thanks v much for your help. In answer to your questions: He's ok with dogs
visiting the house, tho the only ones who do visit he has known for some
time anyway. The problem is on walks, when he comes across many dogs. I
have always just left him to it. He always used to stop in his tracks and then
move forward gently, or wait for them to come to him, when he would often
initiate play. Now he stops in his tracks and if they come towards him
(sometimes showing signs of engagement, sometimes just doing their own
thing - so their body language does not seem to be the trigger) he'll turn tail
and run, yelping hysterically. Occasionally he'll calm down and come back,
and might even play with the dog, but is more likely just to follow me on our
way. But sometimes he goes such a long distance that I have to follow him, as
he seems confused, and I know when he's in that 'shut-down' state that he
won't respond to commands. If having to pass on a sidewalk, he squeals and
tries to pull away. I just keep walking, but this means hanging on tight, which
I guess might feel like a battle to him. On the whole, it's hard not to react in
some way - for starters he makes a terrible racket, which makes everyone
jump, then comment etc etc. If he decides to take off when he's on an
extendable lead he gets tangled up - round legs, trees or the other dog, so I
prefer him to be off lead or on a very short one. But of course if he's off lead
he can get into trouble by bolting into real danger, and if he's on lead then (a)
I find it can make an approaching dog more likely to be aggressive and (b) I
end up having to drag him past screaming.
When he's in an up mood he's pretty responsive - we've worked hard on
training, using a clicker for much of it, and we go to training classes every
week (where he's fine with the other dogs if a bit excitable). He gets around 2
hrs exercise a day - 1 hour off lead and 2 half-hour sessions on a loose
leash. It has always been difficult to get his attention when distracted,
whether by an interesting smell (a discarded burger), or a fearfull smell
(somewhere where a cat has been) or just sheer terror when he sees a dog
approaching. Obedience goes to zero when he smells food. By the way, I have
had him on the hand feeding method because of the trouble I've had getting
his attention, so he does get most of his daily ration on walks, the rest in a
clicker session. I guess kibble's not as nice as a burger. He sleeps in the
kitchen (no separation anxiety) and isn't allowed on the furniture. Otherwise
he's part of the family.
ANSWER: Okay..it sounds like you've done a great job with him.
For now, I wouldn't let him off leash..but let him roam
on his extendable. He can indeed get into real danger so I wouldn't risk it.
I'd like you to try something with him. The next time you see another dog..break into a jog and see if you can run him right by.
The faster, the better. This on a short lead and while the other dog is aways off. Encouragment too "let's GO..let's GO".
I did have to laugh at the comment "obedience goes to zero when he smells food"..hey, he's a cocker. Food rules !
But you do not just "leave him to it" with other dogs. It may be you need a prong collar to give corrections and since you're at training classes you can get a professional to show you how to use it.
I know they look evil..but used correctly..short tug & instant release..they can speed up this process at lot.
And remember, he's young..he's learned a lot and basically sounds like a good boy. So the more training..the more you take charge and be his pack leader, the less fearful he'll be.
Let me know how the quick pass goes. That'll tell me a lot.
Delores
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi again Delores. Feedback on the quick pass. Not doing too well! He's now
becoming aggressive on the lead - presumably because he can't run away? I
try to give other dogs a wide birth on the quick pass, but it's not always poss,
and of course if another dog is off-lead it's more likely to spot us from a
distance and come after us if we're jogging than if we're walking. I still find
he's least likely to kick off (either with hysterical fear or hysterical agression)
if he's off the lead in a quiet rural environment and other dogs are either calm
or playing. Then he joins in. I know I'm supposed to just keep walking as if
everything's normal when he gets fearful, but what about the aggression? Do
I reprimand? Around the house he's very relaxed, so it's not that he's
generally a hyped-up dog. Just when we're out and about, when he gets
agitated and agitation easily becomes flight or, increasingly, fight as well. He
was a really gentle soul until 3 weeks ago!
AnswerFirst I'd like to know exactly what you mean by aggression?
I'd strongly advise never letting him off leash at this point and in this "walk" area, you're going to need to back up and begin training from Square One.
It'd be helpful to do some leash training in the house or backyard without any stimulus and remove the idea that being on leash somehow makes him vulnerable/fearful.
One good exercise is to attach a short leash to your beltloop in the house and where you go - he goes. No chat - no attention at all.
The doggie message is you are the alpha leader and you decide when/where/how fast/how long and he simply follows.
Also - when walking him do a combination of walk and jog. Teach him it's YOUR pace and he walks - he jogs - he "sits & stays". Do this a lot inside and out. Don't wait for an incident/other dog. He needs to learn when you stop - he sits and waits.
And one thing is striking me "He was a really gentle soul until about 3 weeks ago". What happened 3 weeks ago?
And yes you reprimand aggression. This is where the training kicks in - and never yell. Raising your voice only puts more excitement in the room. If possible - always eyeball him when commanding/training.
For now (if possible) I'd concentrate on training and not put him in situations he can't handle yet.
Delores