Expert: Eileen Cronk - 1/20/2008

Question
I have an old oak bedroom bureau and mirror (glass approx 1/2 inch thick)that belonged to my parents. I'm guessing it's around 80 years old.  It's never been refinished and now that I'm retired and have the time, I'd like to refinish it. One side of the bureau has veneer that is split, what is the best technique to repair and then refinish? Much appreciate your time.

Answer
Hi Mary
Nice to hear from you.
First we will talk about the split veneer.
And I am so glad you know that all repairs must be made before the refinishing starts.
First off, I want you to tip the dresser on its side..split side up.
Then press the veneer gently to see if it will go back into its proper place. Often when veneer splits and is left for a long period it expands and will not fit back into place. In that case the excess will need to be carefully trimmed with a steady hand and utility knife.
I hope yours goes in fine, then you continue to make the repair.
Mary you may have heard that veneer can be repaired by applying a hot iron over the area. The idea is that it will melt the glue and the veneer can be re stuck.
I have never had this work as I find the old glue has hardened and fell off, but no harm in trying I guess.
Just cover the area with a cloth so you don't burn the wood.
Heres what you do if the iron trick fails.
You need a good quality carpenters glue.
The idea is to get every bit of the underside of the veneer or dresser covered in glue. If any area is missed, you will have a bulge that will look awful.
I have a very thin metal knife that I use to spread the glue. Its tricky, but you have lots of working time with carpenters glue.
Then the area will need to be clamped till its dry.
You will need a clamping board which will have to be at least as big or bigger than the glued area.
Place a layer of paper towels on the area, then the clamping board. This will absorb any glue squeeze.
You will need clamps or weights to hold everything down till the glue dries.
Mary the weights need to be extremely heavy. Not books.
A cement block or quite a few bricks should do.
Ideally you will be able to clamp a lot if not all of the area depending where the split is.
I would leave the dresser alone overnight or at least 12 hours till the glue dries.
You may find the clamping board stuck to the surface. Not to worry. a gentle side tap with the hammer will get it off.
Never hit upwards on a clamping block as it will break the veneer again (been there LOL)
You will find the paper towel stuck as well. Not to worry, all that will come off with the paint stripper. The glue squeeze too.
Mary this sounds like a nice dresser and if you hesitate to do the repair yourself get a local woodworker to do it for you. He will have all the necessary things to do this easily. And its not a big expense.
Next is the stripping which I know you can do.
Here are my instructions for that. I have revised them for your dresser
INSTRUCTIONS FOR STRIPPING MARYS OAK DRESSER
The first thing you must do is assemble the material to do the job.
The stripper is the most important item.  
I am hoping you can get "CIRCA 1850" brand paint and varnish remover in your area. There is no after washing or neutralizing needed with this product so you never raise the wood grain.
Here is a link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1694&familyN...

MATERIAL LIST For the stripping stage.
1 gallon stripper
3 boxes of Bull Dog steel wool in medium grade.
One 3 inch oil based paint brush.
Rubber gloves (like you do dishes with), and a pair of cotton gloves inside the rubber ones.
People react differently to stripper. A lot of people feel heat through the rubber gloves, but I feel cold. Have no idea why.
An empty large coffee can. (for the stripper)
A couple of old tooth brushes.
Lots of old rags (I like t-shirts or cotton but for this first stage whatever you have)
Lots of newspaper to protect the garage floor
LOTS OF VENTILATION..A MUST
That's all you need to get started.
HERES WHAT YOU DO...
Work in sections. Perhaps one side of the dresser at a time.
Brush on the stripper with the brush. Stripper will quit working if it dries, so keep it wet till the finish softens.
Then take a rag and wipe this mess off.
Then another coat of stripper, rag off again, then while the wood is still wet, take the steel wool and rub with the grain till the wood is nice and clean.
Often depending on the finish, a 3rd coat of stripper is needed.
Use the toothbrush in crevices.
Thats all there is to it ...move to another section and continue.
No other prep is necessary...and DO NOT SAND
When the stripping is complete, stain with Minwax stain applied with a rag, then 4 coats of low luster tung oil also applied with a rag.
I have my own preferences for staining old oak, but thats your decision.
Please let me know if anything is not 100% clear.
Kindest Regards
Eileen